lYlSSl 




INCORPORATED 



PHIL.y)ELPHlA,Rv.TI S..\. 




wjthaTreatise- 

ON THE- 



(onstrue#oii ©f ^AWS 

.mowtokffpthenTinorde^ 





KIC^STONK 

S^W Tooi_, 
AND File Works. 




Class _TS^ 53.. 
Book_..2.5 2,._ 

Copyright N° 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



Henry Disston & Sons 



IN CORPORA ri-:n 



HAND BOOK 
for LUMBERMEN 




BRANCH HOUSES 



CHICAGO 

BOSTON 

MEMPHIS 



NEW ORLEANS 

LOUISVILLE 

CINCINNATI 



SAN FRANCISCO 



===== Keystone === 
Saw, Tool, Steel and File Works 

PHILADELPHIA, PA. 



V. 



INDEX 

How to Order , , . 13, .S(> 

Milling and vSlitting 94 

Mitre 80 

Out of Round 16 

Re-saws — Inserted Tooth 32 

Rift 29 

Setting — Instructions for 46-53 

Setting Stake 67 

Shapes of Teeth 11 

Sharpening and Gumming 20 

Sharpening — instructions for 4()-53 

Sharpening Machine — Automatic 78 

Shingle 86 

Speed — Rules for Calculating 18 

Thin and Extra Thin 20, 21 

Veneer (Segment) 88 

Chisel Point Holders — How to Order 25 

Chisel Point Saws — Important Notice 26 

CROSS-CUT SAWS 35-37 

Fitting 143-145 

Tools for Fitting 41, 42 

Discs for Cutting Hot or Cold Iron 91 

Dull Teeth and Square Gullets 15 

Dunbar Tooth 31 

FILES 146-149 

How to Order 150 

For Great American Cross-Cut Saw 145 

Filing Chisel Points 23 

Filing Circular Saws 65, 06 

Filing Cylinder and Bilge Saws 85 

Frozen Timber-Sawing 46 

Gang Saws 34 

Gauge for Regulating Length of Cleaner Teeth 42 

Gauge for Regulating Set 87 

Gauge — Standard 11 

Goulding Bit 30 

Groover Head 81 

Gullet Tooth 50-53 

Gummers 54, 55, 56 

Cutters 55 

Cutter-holder • 57 

Parts 58 

Gumming Press and Shear 59 

Hack Saws 90, 138 

Hack Saws and Blades 153, 154 

HAND SAWS— Construction of Saws and How to Keep 

Them in Order 125-138 

Bevel of Teeth 134-136 

Cross-cut Teeth 128 



INDEX 

Filing 130-186 

Filing- Guide and Clamp 142 

Fine Teeth for Hardwood 187 

Peg Teeth 181 

Pitch of 'Teeth 133 

Pruning Saw Teeth 187, 138 

Rip Saw Teeth 127, 121) 

Setting Saws 188 

Handles for Cross-cut Saws 48, 44 

Hammers 77 

Hammering and Tensioning Circular Saws (i8-7() 

Hints to Sawyers and Millmeu 14 

Inserting New Points 28 

Introduction 7 

KNIVES 

for cutting Cloth 83 

Cork 83 

Leather 83 

Paper 88 

Knives — Machine, of all kinds 151, 152 

Mandrels 79, 80, 93 

Measurements — World's 12 

Metal Sawing Machine and Saws 92,94 

One man Crosscut Saws 38 

Orders — How to Specify for Band Saws 104, 105 

Prosser Tooth 31 

Re-Saws— Inserted Tooth 82, 33 

Risdon Tooth 81 

Saw-sets /. . . .()<), 07, 189-141 

Saw-sets — Champion, for Cross-cut Saws 02 

Screws — for Shingle Saws 86 

Setting Machine for Narrow Band Saws 114 

Shapes or Styles of Circular Saw Teeth 11 

Side File . .' 68 

Spaulding, or No. 10 Tooth 32 

Speed Indicator 19 

Stave Saws 84 

Steel — Disston's New Process 96 

Steel — Ingots — Method of Casting 9 

Straight-edges 77 

ySwage Bar 77 

Swages — Conqueror 60, 61, 62 

Swages — Eccentric for Band and Gang Saws 115 

Teeth for Hard and Soft Wood 53 

Trammel for Circular Saws 49 

Trenton Tooth 80 

Triumph Cross-cut Saws 88 

Useful Information 157-161 

Wabble Saw 82 

Warranty 8 

World's Measurements 12 



List of Terms 

USED IN 

Manufacturing, I^unning and Repairing S 



aws. 



Page. 

Alignment 17, 97, 103 

Balance— Out of .68 

Bevel 47 

Buckled 20, 75 

Burr 20 

Case-hardening . . . 20, 48, 102 
Chattering . . . 47, 49, 68, 101 

Choking .51 

Clearance 15, 19, 21 

Crowding 21, 76 

Crumble 20 

Dished 73, 88 

Fash 20 

Fast 99 

Feed 15, 100 

Flat 17, 74, 99 

Full 73 

Hang 19 

Heating 17, 19, 79 

Hook 20, 101 

Gullet 15, 47, 50 

Gumming 20, 52 

Joint 16 



Pagk. 

Kerf 21, ()S, 82 

L,ead 17 

Left- Hand 104 

Let Down 20 

Lining 16 

Loose 20, 68, 75, 99 

Lump-Twist . . . . 73, 75, 99 

Open 68, 74 

Periphery 51, 52 

Pitch 49, 85 

Rake 20, 48 

Rattle 74 

Right- Hand 105 

Round— Out of 16 

Set 19, 21, 46 

Snakey 20, 68, 74 

Spall 9 

Split 9 

Swaging 15, 19, 101 

True 17, 68 

Tension 68, 75, 99 

Upset 19 



INTRODUCTION. 



Henry Disston , the founder of the establishment of Henry Disston 
& Sons, incorporated, began making saws in 1840. The lumber manu- 
facturing business, at that time in its infancy, has since been brought 
to a high state of perfection ; thousands of feet of lumber per day are 
demanded, where formerly hundreds were sufficient. Consequently, 
saws are required which will stand tremendous speeds and the strain 
put upon them by an enormous feed. 

After repeated unsuccessful efforts to procure steel of the desired 
quality, this firm, in 1855, erected a crucible steel plant expressly 
adapted to the manufacture of saw steel. Constant efforts and unlimited 
expenditure of time and mone}^ enabled them to produce the steel, 
which, for general excellence has established an enviable and World 
wide reputation. 

The valuable data collected as manufacturers of saws of all kinds 
and descriptions, together with the experience gained in making steel, 
has placed the firm of Henry Disston & Sons, Inc., in a position to 
make steel peculiarly adapted to the requirements of the various 
branches of saw making. The plant has been remodeled several 
times, once consequent upon removal, three times after destructive 
fires, and each time has arisen, Phoenix-like, larger and better than 
ever, and with the extensive additions now about completed makes it, 
beyond question, the largest and most modern crucible saw steel plant 
and saw factory in the World. 

The steel being of uniform grade insures a uniform temper in the 
saws, which, in connection with the system of hammering, grinding 
and tensioning employed, makes DISSTON SAWS superior to all 
others. The most skillful mechanics in all branches, tempering facili- 
ties exclusively their own, a shop equipped with the finest machinery 
and a determination to spare no necessary expense to make perfect 
saws, has gained for the saws bearing the name Henry Disston & 
Sons, the high reputation they bear. 

That this policy is a wise one is evidenced by the fact that DISSTON 
SAWS are used by the great majority of lumber manufacturers, wood 
and metal workers throughout the World. The name DISSTON on 
a saw is a guarantee it is the best that can be produced. 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



Warranty. 



F ^-T? C// SA IV is warranted as tnie as it is possible to make it, free 
-^ — ^ from /tazis and seams. If foimd defective in any of these 
particulars it may be returned.^ and if on examination we are 
satisfied the satv is at fault, all necessary repairs will be made free of 
charge, or a new saw given in exchange, provided it is returned within 
thirty days from delivery. 

We do not -warrant saws cracked in gicmt^iing where the punches and 
dies are not kept in proper order. The filing of square corners in the 
gullets will also cause the plate to crack. Our zvarrafity does not cover 
such cases. 

Henry Disston <& Sons, 

(INCORPORATED.) 



HAND-BOOK FOR L I 'MBliRMEN. 



IMPROVED METHOD OF CASTING STEEL INGOTS, OR 
COMPRESSED STEEL. 



Patented. 

From the time saws were first made to the present, saw manu- 
facturers have had the greatest difficulty in obtaining steel plates for 
saws that w^ere free from flaws caused by ca.vities formed in the ingots 
while cooling. These cavities are injurious to the steel and give the 
saw plate the appearance of being made of two pieces of steel not 
properly welded together and cause the teeth of that portion of the 
saw^ to split, spall or crumble. 

It was impossible to detect all of these flaws in the ingot or in the 
plate after rolling, consequently saws have been sent out by all manu- 
facturers that have proven unsatisfactory, causing an expense to both 
the mill man and the maker ; an expense to the mill man in loss of time, 
and a dead loss of the saw to the manufacturer. We have always 
taken the utmost care in the manufacture and inspection of our steel 
and saws and have always headed the list as saw manufacturers ; but in 
spite of our best endeavors, we were, until quite recently, unable to 
entirely overcome this difficulty. We are glad to state that after years 
of careful study and expensive experimenting, our efforts have been 
crowned with the greatest success of the age. Our method of casting steel 
ingots and process of compressing same, entirel}^ does away with all 
splitting, spalling and crumbling of teeth. This process has long been 
sought by prominent steel makers both in this country and Europe ; 
several patents have been granted for compressing and improving saw^ 
steel, but all efforts in this direction failed until our patent process 
was brought out. 

This method not only does away with the splitting and spalling of 
teeth, but makes a hard, tough, elastic steel of the highest quality, 
which with our improved and patented process of manufacturing and 
tempering, enables us to furnish our patrons with saws that for tough- 
ness, standing-up quality, uniformity of temper and general superiority, 
have never been equaled. 



r 



10 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



SUPERIOR TO ALL OTHERS. 



Having liad over sixty-two 3'ears' experience in manufacturing 
saws, and from the fact that by constant experimenting, at great cost, 
we have achieved a state of perfection in material, machinery and 
methods uuattained by others and only accomplished by years of 
watchfulness and application, we feel justified in claimin.g the Disston 
Saws are superior to all others. 

Disston's Saws are used wherever lumber is made, and are the cri- 
terion b}^ which the merits of all others are judged. 




When ordering saws, time and trouble will be saved by exercising 
care in making out the order ; we furnish blanks to facilitate this, 
which can be had on application. 



J 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



11 



The illustration below represents various Styles of Teeth for Cir- 
cular Saws, and our Standard Gauge. By referring to this when 
ordering, customers will be enabled to inform us the style of tooth and 
gauge of saws required. 

..icfU 



^^ooNh 




Gauge, No. 



\ inch scant. 



scant, 
full, 
scant, 
full. 



Gau 



uge, 


No. 


11 . . 

12 . . 


I 

• • 8 

• • l.'-f 
■ ■ 3 l 


inch 


scant. 






14 . . 




" 


full. 






15 . . 




" 


scant. 






16 . . 


_1_ 




full. 



On the following page will be found the equivalent of the gauges 
in decimals of an inch, also the difference between the London, Bir- 
mingham or Stubbs and American gauges. The Disston gauge corre- 
sponds exactly to the Stubbs gauge. 



n 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



The World's iVleasurements. 



1 M[I[R=1'^, = 10"„ 


nil nil 


2 


nil 


3 


4 


, 5 


6 


7 


nil 


1 FTJHEN1SU2 IN,HU"„ 




1 

MM 


II 1 1 


r 

1 


1 1 1 


II 1 


1 FT, ENGLISH, 12 IN,=305 % 


II M 


1 


II III 


,1 


2 


II 1 1 


3 

1 M 


IFI. FOANZ, 12IN,= 325% 


III, 


MM 


2 




IFL lOLL 11 IN,-m"„ 


II II 


Mil' 


1 1 1 1 


2 


II 1 i M M 


1 FT, SCHWEO,, ID 11=23/ % 


1 1 1 1 II 1 1 


1 1 1 1 


1 1 


2 

1 1 


UN 



GAUGE. 


LONDON. 


STUBBS, BIRMINGHAM 


AMERICAN OR 






OR DISSTON. 


BROWN & SHARP. 





.840 


.340 


.32495 


1 


.300 


.300 


.28930 


"2 


.284 


.284 


.25763 


8 


.259 


.259 


.22942 


4 


.238 


.238 


.20431 


5 


.220 


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.18194 


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.203 


.203 


.16202 


7 


.180 


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.14428 


8 


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.12849 


9 


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.10189 


11 


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.08081 


13 


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.07196 


14 


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.06408 


15 


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.05706 


16 


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17 


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18 


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.04030 


19 


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20 


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21 


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.02846 


22 


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.025347 


23 


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24 


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25 


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.0179 


26 


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27 


.01875 


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28 


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31 


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37 


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39 


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40 


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HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



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14 HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



Hints to Sawyers and Saw=iVlin Men. 



A GOOD SAW. 

Our .saws stand at the head of the market on their merits, and 
although they are unequaled for quality of material, workmanship, 
toughness and elasticit}', it is quite important that they should be 
adapted to the capacity of the mill and the class of timber they 
have to cut. 

When in need of saws write us giving a full description of the 
mill and timber they are wanted for, and we will guarantee to furnish 
saws adapted to the requirements. 

Below find some of the causes which give rise to complaints 
against saws and sawmakers. 

Insufficient power to maintain regular speed. 

Too thin a saw for the class of work required. 

Not enough or too many teeth for the amount of feed carried. 

Weak and imperfect collars. 

Collars not large enough in diameter. 

Ill-fitting mandrel and pin holes. 

Uneven setting and filing. 

Not enough set for proper clearance. 

Too much pitch or hook of teeth. 

Irregular and shallow gullets. 

Out of round and consequently out of balance. 

A sprung mandrel, or lost motion in mandrel boxes. 

A carriage track neither level nor straight. 

Carriage not properly aligned with saw. 

L,ost motion in carriage trucks. 

Heating of journal next to saw. 

Guide-pins too tight or not properly adjusted. 

Backs of teeth too high for clearance. 

Attempting to run too long without sharpening. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 15 



DULL TEETH AND SQUARE GULLETS. 

A very general cause of trouble is a dull smv, not only dull on the 
extreme points, but the cutting portion of the tooth under the points, 
as illustrated in Fig. L 

The points of the saw-teeth are the only parts of the saw that 
should come in contact with the lumber. They must be kept sharp by 
frequent use of the file, and set by springing, swaging, or spreading 
when necessary, sufficiently to clear the blade of the saw nicely to pre- 
vent friction. As the points of the teeth do all the work, they become 
dull and round, the sides of the points wearing away as well as the 
points themselves. Great care should be taken to maintain the proper 
shape of points. This can readily be done by the use of a Juniper or 
Upset (see pages 60 to (52 J when necessary. 



Fig. 1. 

It will be observed in the cut above that in addition to ha\ing 
sharp corners in the gullets, teeth A and B are very dull ; tooth C 
shows how the points and gullets should be dressed. The gullets 
should be kept rounded out, either with a gummer or a file. 

A saw-tooth becomes dviU on the side or under the point in pro- 
portion to the amount of feed ; for instance, if the tooth takes one- 
sixteenth of an inch hold at each revolution, it will become dull to a 
depth of one-sixteenth of an inch below the point, or more or less as 
you increase or diminish the feed. A few minutes filing two or three 
times a daj^ will save much of the time and labor otherwise expended 
in running a dull saw, and effect a saving in the power consumed, 
increase the output and improve the quality of lumber manufactured. 

Do not file square corners in the gullets of the saw, as it is very 
liable to cause breakage, as shown at D in cut above, particularly 
when the teeth are dull or in frosty weather. Our warranty does 7iot 
cover saws broken from sharp corners filed in the gullets. 



10 HENRY DISSTON & SONS' 



SAWS OUT OF ROUND. 

The cutting of a circular saw should be continuous, consequently 
the saw must be perfectly round to give the best results. No saw can 
reasonably be expected to give good results if it is out of round, for 
when a saw has long and short teeth it naturally follows that the 
longest teeth will do the most work, this throws the heaviest strain on 
that part of the saw instead of distributing it equally around the 
entire circumference. It is fully as important that saws be kept per- 
fectly round as it is that they should be kept well swaged and 
sharpened. 

It is a comparatively easy matter to keep saws round with auto- 
matic machiner}', but it requires a skilful man to keep them round 
simply b\' the action of sharpening with a file. All filers should 
"joint " their saws frequently. In swage-set saws always joint after 
a fresh swaging by holding a piece of grindstone against the teeth 
while the saw revolves, thus reducing the teeth to a common length, 
then file them again to a keen cutting edge. Keep the saw round, 
well set and nicely sharpened. 

SETTING THE CARRIAGE TRACK AND HUSK OR SAW 

FRAME. 

It is very essential to good work that the foundation of the mill 
should be amply strong to withstand the shocks it is subjected to in 
turning logs ; the track stringers should be good sound heart lumber, 
preferably Yellow Pine, as this is a firm wood and will resist moisture. 
The size of the stringers should not be less than S" x 8" and as few 
pieces as po.ssible to make up the necessary- length. These stringers 
should be set perfectly level and parallel with the mill house and^ca'/u-d 
into the girders and joists of the mill floor or foundation timbers, and 
secured b}' keys and bolts ."-o that they will not change position when 
logs are rolled against the head blocks. The track irons, particularly 
the f 'side, should be firmly bolted to the stringer and when finished 
be perfectly straight and level. 

It is quite as important that the saw frame should be hrmly 
secured to its place as that it should be level and solid, for the vibra- 
tion and strain are of such a nature that the frame would quickly 
change position unless zr/v firmly secured. The slightest change would 
make a vast difference in the running of the saw and necessitate relin- 
ing. When putting in the husk stringers, use well sea.soned wood and 
put them down in such a manner that they cannot possibly change 
their position, then find the position of the husk on the stringers and 
fasten down securelv with through bolts. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 17 ' 



LINING THE SAW WITH THE CARRIAGE. 

The amount of lead required for circular saws should be the least 
amount that will keep the saw in the cut and prevent it heating at the 
centre. If the lead into the cut is too much, the saw will heat on the 
rim ; if the lead out of the cut is too much, the saw will heat at centre, 
we therefore give the least amount that is used, which is one-eighth of 
an inch in twenty feet. 

Of the various methods used for lining a saw with the carriage, 
we give what we think will be the most easily understood : First, see 
that the mandrel is set perfectly level, so that the saw hangs plumb 
and true when screwed between the collars, and is flat on the log side. 
Draw a line running ten feet each way from centre of mandrel and par- 
allel with the V track, fasten a stick to the head-block, so that it comes 
up to the line at the end in front of saw ; ruti the carriage forward the 
twenty feet, move the rear end of line one-eighth of an inch away 
from former parallel position, then slew the end of mandrel either 
forward or backward until it is exactly at right angles to the new 
position of line, and the saw parallel with same. 

All end play must be taken out of the mandrel and carriage trucks 
when lining a saw to the carriage, and the track must be laid solid, 
level and true, so that the carriage will run straight and smooth. 

COLLARS FOR SAWS. 

For a perfect running saw it is indispensable to have the collars and 
stem of mandrel true and well fitting ; any imperfection in these points 
is multiplied as many times as the saw is larger than the collars ; they 
should fit exactly. 

For large saws we prefer collars that have a perfect bearing of 
three-quarters of an inch on the outer rim, the other part clear, as they 
hold tighter than a solid flat collar. Examine the collars carefully to 
see if they are true, if not, have them made so ; also be sure that stem 
of mandrel fits the hole nicely and offers no obstruction to the saw slip- 
ping easily up to and against the fast collar. We advocate the use of 
six inch collars for portable and semi-portable mills. Collars for steam 
feed mills should be larger. 

Test the saw wdth a straight edge, and if it is found true place it 
on the mandrel, tighten up the collars with a wrench, test again with 
a straight edge and see if the position of the blade has been altered ; 
observing whether it shows true, if not, the fault is sure to lay in the 
collars and will be likely to ruin the saw. The best results cannot be 
obtained from the mill until the defects are remedied. 

We finish all our circular saws by a process, which insures each 



18 HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 

side of the saw plate being perfectly true throughout its entire surface ; 
by this invaluable process, every particle of uneveness is removed ; the 
saw never requires packing (providing the collars are true), and all the 
trouble which has hitherto perplexed the sawyer in this particular is 
removed. 

SPEED OF SAWS. 

This is a very important point for consideration, as a hundred 
revolutions, more or less, will always make a great difference in the 
running of the saw. We can adjust the tension of saws to overcome a 
slight variation in speed provided full instructions are given when 
ordering, though we would advise a regular speed at all times. Our 
experience has been that saws work better when nni at a regular speed 
even if it is necessar)^ to reduce the number of revolutions one hundred 
below that given in table, than to have a variable speed. If the 
power is too light to maintain the standard speed, run the engine at a 
higher regular speed, put a larger diameter receiving pulley on the 
mandrel, and the results will be better both as to quality and capacity. 
This will be much better than the throttle plan, even if the speed does 
fall below that given in the table ; the regularity is the most desirable 
point to look after. Following is a table of speeds : 

SPEED OF SAWS RUNNING 10,000 FT. PER MINUTE ON THE RIM. 

72 in., 530 revolutions per min. 36 in., 1,080 revolutions per min. 

32 " 1,225 

28 " 1,400 

24 " 1,630 " " 

20 " 1,960 

16 " 2,450 " " 

12 " 3,260 

*' 10 " 3,920 

8 " 4,600 " " 

RULES FOR CALCULATING SPEED, Etc. 

PROBLEM 1. The diameter of driving and driven pulleys and 
the speed of driver being given, find the speed of driven. 

RULE. Multiply the diameter of driver by its number of revolu- 
tions, and divide the product by the diameter of the driven ; the quo- 
tient will be the number of revolutions of driven. 

PROBLEM 2. The diameter and revolutions of the driven pulley 
being given, find the diameter of the driver. 

RULE. Multiply the revolutions of driven by its diameter and 
divide the product by the revolutions of the driving shaft ; the quotient 
will be the diameter of driver. 



68 " 


560 


64 " 


600 


60 " 


640 


56 " 


700 


52 " 


750 


48 " 


815 


44 " 


890 


40 " 


980 



jrANn-r>ooK i-or lumbermen. 



li) 



SPEED INDICATOR. 




Working parts 
encased. 

Ivfficient. 

Iiulis])ensable 



Millnien and Sawyers should know the correct speed of all nia- 
chiner}^ and saws operated by them. It is very important that exact 
speeds be gi\-en with all orders for large circular saws. We guarantee 
tlie accuracy of the indicator illustrated above and advocate its use. 

KEEPING AND FITTING SAWS, Etc. 

See that tlie saw sli])S up freely to fast collar and hangs straight 
and plumb when tightened up ; that the mandrel is level, in proper line 
with the carriage, and that it fits in its boxes as neatly as possible 
without heating, for when the mandrel heats, by transmission, the saw 
will heat also and thus expand in the centre, which will make it work 
badly, injure, and perhaps ruin it. We do not warrant a saw to run on 
a mandrel that heats, although if we knew exactly to what degree it 
heats we could make a saw that would admit of that much expansion, 
but a heating mandrel will always give more or less trouble. To get 
the best results from a mill this must be overcome. (See article on 
mandrels for circular saws. ) 

Take up all end play or lateral motion in mandrel, as the grain of 
the wood will draw or push the mandrel endwise, no matter how well 
tlie saw is kept. See that the carriage track is level, straight, solid and 
in proper line, also that rolls or trucks have no end play. Keep all gum 
or saw-dust off the tracks. Keep the saws sharp, round and swaged or 
set enough for clearance ; when everything is in proper shape ^\ of an 
inch equally divided is sufficient swage or set. Keep extreme point of 
tooth the widest. Do all the filing on the under or front side of tooth, 
filing square across the teeth. Never file square corners in the gullets 
of saws of any kind, as this renders them liable to break. When there 
is occasion to swage or upset the teeth of the saw, file them all to a 
sliarp point first ; this will not only save time but will save the saw, 
for the sharper the teeth the more easily will they upset or swage. 



20 HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 

Endeavor to keep the teeth in the shape they were when new, for if 
they lose any of the hook or rake or saw-dust chamber, the saw will 
not only consume more power but be harder to keep in order, as well 
as make inferior lumber. Keep the saw well balanced and the gullets 
well gummed out. IMuch better results will be obtained, and saws, 
time and files saved, by following the instructions given with our 
Gummers. 

SHARPENING AND GUMMING WITH EMERY WHEELS. 

In sharpening or gummiug .saws with emery wheels always u.se a 
good, free-cutting wheel, and never put so much pressure on it or 
crowd it so fast that the teeth are heated to such an extent they 
become blue, for when teeth are blued, glazed, or case-hardened by the 
emery wheel, they are apt to break or crumble when in the cut or the 
next time they are swaged. Joint the emery wheel occasionallj' to 
retain the shape of its face and to remove glaze. 

When gumming, it is best to gum around the saw several times 
instead of finishing each tooth at one operation, for by going over the 
teeth several times, they are less liable to case-harden or blue, and a 
more uniform gullet is obtained. After gumming, it is advisable to 
file all around the saw, taking care to remove the fash or burr left on 
the edges and all the glazed or hard spots. Gumming and sharpening 
with the emery wdieel will cause the saw to "let down" or lose its 
tension much quicker than by the use of the file or burr-gummer, as it 
heats and expands the rim of saw, putting it in the shape generally 
termed by mill-men "buckled," which makes it appear loose and 
limber and causes it to run snakey in the cut. Many saws are con- 
demned just from this cause and thrown aside as worn out, when by 
proper w^ork and hammering they can be made as good as new saws of 
the same size. 

In sending us old .saws for repairs, mark plainh' on the case whom 
they are from, and write us full instructions as to the work to be done, 
and we will guarantee to put as good and durable ten.sion in them as 
they had originally. 

We carry a stock of emery wheels for the requirements of mill 
men at regular market prices. 

THIN AND EXTRA THIN LARGE SAWS. 

As we have said in the preceding pages, all saws and saw-mill 

-machinery must be kept in the proper shape to obtain the best results ; 

this is especially necessary in running thin saws, for while a thick or 

standard gauge saw will give very fair results where only mediinn skill 

in the management of saw and mill is used, a thin saw would fall far 



r 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 21 



short of giving fair results under the same methods and management. 
A thin saw cannot reasonably be expected to stand as much crowding 
as a thick one and requires more skill and better appliances to give 
good results. 

It is always necessary to have enough set in a saw to give suf- 
ficient clearance, which means enough to prevent the log from rubbing 
on the body of saw. 

In the usual gauges of large circular saws, say 7, 8 and 9, used 
in the ordinary manner on the average feed and lumber, ^\ of an inch 
equally divided is about as little clearance as should be run except in 
hard woods and frozen timber, then less may be used. A thin saw 
requires just as much clearance as any other saw, consequently, in 
proportion to thickness, the thin saw has the most strain to bear. For 
this reason alone the best skill and mill are required to successfully 
run a thin saw. We do not wish to convey the idea that we do not 
make thin saws, but simply desire our customers who contemplate 
putting them in to appreciate the differences in working between thick 
and thin saws. The difference in thickness between 8 gauge and 10 
gauge is 3V of a^i inch ; the set for clearance of each being the same, 
3V is all it is possible to save in kerf, and between an 8 gauge and 11 
gauge the difference is ^.j of an inch full, hence the saving in the in- 
stances above is very small — so small, in fact, that in nine cases out of 
ten it is offset by reduction in capacity or in poorly manufactured 
lumber. 

As to saving in power, the difference in nineteen cases out of 
twenty is not in favor of the thinner saw, for, being so much lighter, it 
will deviate from its line much easier, and any deviation, ever so slight 
in the length of the cut, will consume by friction all the power saved 
in difference of kerf. 

These are plain facts that any man who knows the gauges can 
figure out for himself, and we advise every mill man to study the sub- 
ject well before ordering extra thin saws. If the mill, skill of em- 
ployees and:value of timber is such as to justify extra thin saws, then 
have them by all means, and we claim that our saws, in workmanship, 
toughness, elasticity, and standing-up quality of steel, are unequaled, 
whether thick, thin, or extra thin. 

In ordering, please note that thin saws require more teeth than 
heavier ones to do the same class of sawing, as this equalizes the strain 
on the rim as well as prevents springing of the teeth. 

Regularity of speed is desirable with all saws, but particularly so 
with thin ones, as they depend more than- the others upon the velocity 
to hold them up to their work. In extra thin saws, one-sixth more 
speed than given in the table will be advantageous. 



22 HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



CHISEL POINT SAWS. 

Chisel Point Saws are made in several sizes. Those most used 
are the No. 1 and No. 2 Oregon, No. 3, No. 4, and No. 4;4 Chisel 
Point. The illustrations on pages 27 to 29 show these sizes and their 
adaptability to the various kinds of work. 

Our Chisel Point Saws are constructed on scientific principles and 
embody all the latest improvements in the line of Inserted Tooth Saws. 

To insure perfection in their manufacture, special machinery par- 
ticularly adapted to the insertion of the teeth is employed. The hold- 
ers and points are grooved on the same lines, and are guaranteed to 
fit. The points and holders are exact duplicates and may readily be 
replaced. If they are ordered according to directions they will suit 
any saw made for that size of holder and point. 

When ordering Chisel Point Saws, the directions on page 13 of 
this Hand Book should be followed. If the number of teeth is to be 
left to our judgment, specify the horse power available to drive the 
saw, the speed at which it will be operated, the greatest feed in inches 
per revolution, the kind of timber to be sawed, and the daily capacity 
of the mill. 

HOLDERS. 

In sawing sandy or gritty logs, the edges of the inner circles of 
the holders are liable to wear and become rounded. This permits a 
portion of the dust to pass down between the side of the saw and the 
log, instead of being properly chambered and carried out of the cut. 
The tendency then is to create friction and heat, which is detrimental 
to the good working of the saw. To prevent this the edges of the 
inner circles of the holders should be filed across and kept square. 
Holders which have become thin from long usage should be discarded 
and replaced with new ones. 

The swaged pattern of holder, which is one-and-one-half gauges 
heavier in the throat than the sawplate proper, will be supplied if 
specified in order. 

SPECIAL HOLDERS. 

When the sockets holding the shanks are worn large, it is 
advisable to order the special sizes of shanks designed to take up 
this wear. There are two special sizes; one is gV and the other ^^" 
larger iu the circle than regular. 

Unless shanks fit snugly, they are liable to break or cause the 
points to break. A shank that has liecome strained or compres.sed 
through accident can be expanded by removing it from the saw, laying 
it on an anvil, and striking it sharply on the inner circle ; consequently 



r 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



23 



there is no reason for the shanks or bits ever fitting loosely. See that 
the guides are set, so tliat they are below the sockets, for if they come 
in contact with the holders they are liable to turn out the teeth. 

INSERTING NEW POINTS. 

Oil the grooves carefully. Place the new point squarely on the 
head of the shank. If the point should not turn into position readily, 
lift the wrench enough to permit the ball or head of the holder to 
assume its proper place in the point ; then start again and the point 
will be found to move steadily into position. Do not use undue force, 
the stops should meet lightly, and no additional pressure should be 
applied to the wrench when the heel of the bit has reached the 
shoulder. 

SHARPENING CHISEL POINTS. 

The points should be sharpened or filed without taking them out 
of the saw, thereby preventing unnecessary wear. The temper of 
these points is such that they may be sharpened by the use of a good 
file. The following illustration .shows the File specially designed for 
this purpose. 

CHISEL POINT FILE. 

Made 8, 9 and 10 inches in length. 




Most of the filing should be done on the front or the throat of the 
tooth. It is only necessary to file enough on the back to remove the 
burr. Very little work is required to sharpen points. Care should be 
exercised to keep the cutting edge at right angles to the side of the 
saw. Do not use a square cornered file, as this will leave a sharp nick 
under the point. A bit left in this condition is liable to break and 
injure the blade. 




^pp-- 



No. 1 shows the point when new. No. 2 shows the point when 
it has been properly filed until worn out. No. 3 shows the point 
improperly filed. This method weakens the bit. 



24 HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 

Should a bit be broken by accident, the new one must be dressed 
to the length and width of those in the saw. 

SWAGING POINTS. 

If the bits are to be swaged, the work should be done with a light 
hammer, drawing out the corners just enough to square the points; 
then the set should be dressed by a side file. Relieve the corners so 
as to give proper clearance. Be careful in swaging, not to strike hard 
enough to upset the shoulder or strain the shank, for the .saw is liable 
to be ruined in this manner. 

A section of saw containing one tooth, for u.se in a vise when 
swaging points, will be supplied at a small cost. 

Particular attention is called to the necessity for keeping the cut- 
ting edges of the points widest. It is desired that this important 
item may not be lost sight of, since most complaints may be traced 
to a disregard of this requirement. If the points are filed so that 
the}' are wider behind the cutting edges than on the extreme corners, 
good work cannot be accomplished. The following diagrams, No. G, 
No. 7, and No. 8, were taken from bits removed from saws, concerning 
which complaint was made. The reason is at once apparent. Diagrams 
No. 4 and No. 5 show two styles of side dressing, either of which is 
good, depending on the class of work in hand. The spread or swage 
should be distributed evenlv on both sides of the saw. 




If r 



No. 4. No. 5. No. 6. No. T. No. 8. 

Chisel points are made in various widths of cutting edge A 
small booklet, containing a list of these sizes, will be supplied on 
application. The regular width is furnished, unless directions are 
given to the contrary. The Booklet mentioned gives full instructions 
on this particular. 

FROZEN TIMBER. 

Before starting to cut frozen timber, equip the saw with a new set 
of swaged holders, laying the old ones aside for summer sawing. This 
expenditure will be foiuid a paying investment. The swaged holder 
is heavier in the throat than the sawplate proper, and is designed to 
hold and carr}' out of the cut the fine dust, which would, otherwise, 
pass down the side of the saw, freeze to the log, and force the saw 
out of line. 



V. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 25 



For winter work it is not desirable to use a side file, which will 
leave flat places on the sides of the points, parallel to the sides of the 
saw. Should you do so, be careful to see that the bits are relieved 
behind the points to the extreme edge. To do successful work in this 
class of sawing, the corners must be sharp. 

It is possible to use narrower bits than in Summer sawing. In 
some sizes a .special short bit, particularly designed for Winter work, 
is made. This short bit is illustrated and described in the pamphlet 
"Chisel Points and Holders." 

A number of our customers operate chisel point saws very suc- 
cessfully in Winter by using worn points ; they should be selected in 
sets of even length .so that the saw will be round. 

The old points may be swaged a trifle. Use no more set than is 
absolutely necessary. Taper the set back nicely from the points by 
careful side dressing, have the teeth widest at the extreme points, and 
do not allow the corners to become round, or the saw will dodge out 
of the cut, particularly in slabbing. The corners next to the log do 
most of the cutting, and soon become dull in frozen timber. 

DIRECTIONS FOR ORDERING CHISEL POINTS AND HOLDERS. 

Every Chi.sel Point Saw of our manufacture has a sJwp nuniker, 
which will be found directly under our brand, midway between the 
eye and the rim. Invariably give this number when ordering points 
and holders. 

When there is the slightest doubt about sizes, gauges, etc., or 
where the shop number cannot be obtained, .send a samj^le point or 
holder (an old one will answer) with the order. 

If points of a special width of cutting edge are required, it should 
be specified. Unless otherwise directed the regular width will be 
sent. 

The gauge of both points and holders should be the same as the 
sawplate (except in special cases), and this may be determined by 
applying a Disston Standard Wire Gauge, which corresponds exactly 
to the Stubbs or English Wire Gauge. 

To fill an order properly, we require to know the size of the tooth, 
the gauge and the width at cutting edge. 

The size of holders or shanks always corresponds with the size of 
bits used. For example, where No. 3-8 G y^^" points are used, the 
proper size of shanks to order is No. 3-8 gauge. 

When ordering a Chisel -Point Saw it is necessary to give the exact 
size of the centre hole. If the centre hole is altered after the saw 
leaves our hands it is liable to throw the saw out of round. 



26 HENRY DISST ON & SONS' 

IMPORTANT NOTICE. 

When returning Chisel Point Saws for repairs, please leave all the 
holders and points in place, for they are needed in adjusting the tension. 
ITnless holders and points are returned we shall supply a new set at 
regular prices. 

INSERTED TOOTH SAWS— AMERICAN 5AW CO.'S DESIGNS. 

We ha^•e recently acquired, through purchase, the saw business of 
the American Saw Company, and are now manufacturing and supply- 
ing all of the styles of Inserted Tooth Saws formerly made by this 
firm, and the teeth, bits, springs, or holders, for same. We are pre- 
pared to supply the American Tooth, the Trenton Tooth regular, the 
Trenton Tooth (1804 style), the Brooke Bit and Spring, the Dunbar 
Tooth, the Risdon Tooth, the High Speed Tooth, the Prosser Tooth, 
and the Goulding Bit. The following illustrations will show several 
of these styles, all of which, with the exception of the Gouldhig Bit, 
are fastened with a rivet. These teeth are sharpened and dressed tlie 
same as a Solid Tooth Saw, and the directions in this Hand Book for 
the dressing of Solid Tooth Saws will apply. The teeth are all ribbeil 
on the back to lessen the amount of swaging necessary. 

When sharpening, the same cutting angles should be preserved ; 
the gullets should be kept round, either with a round file or by the use 
of a proper gummer. 

When changing teeth, first drive them into position by placing a 
swage on the cutting edge and striking a blow with a light hammer. 
Care should be exercised not to expand the rim of the saw b}' riveting 
too tightly, for if this operation is not properh' done the tension of the 
saw will be destroyed. It is only necessary to rivet enough to secure 
the tooth firmly. The surplus metal may then be chipped off" with a 
cold chisel in order that it may not interfere with the running of the saw. 

For those who prefer this form of Inserted Tooth Saw to the Chisel 
Point, the Trenton Tooth (1894 style) is recommended. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



27 



No. 1 OREGON TOOTH. Full size of tooth. 




No. 2 OREGON TOOTH. Full size of tooth. 




28 



HKNRV D/SSTON & SONS' 



No. 3 CHISEL POINT. Full size of tooth. 




No. 4 CHISEL POINT. Full size of tooth. 




HAND-BOOK' FOR LUMBERMEN. 



29 



No. 4>4 CHISEL POINT. Full size of tooth. 




RIFT SAWS. 
WITH INSERTED TEETH. 




30 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



THE QOULDINQ" BIT. 




"TRENTON" TOOTH, Regular. 



BROOKE" BIT. 




HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



31 



RISDON" TOOTH. 



THE "PROSSER" TOOTH. 




DUNBAR" TOOTH. 



HIGH=SPEED." 





AMERICAN TOOTH. 




32 HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



No. 10 TOOTH. 



We call particular attention to the flanged tooth, by the use of 
which there is a great saving in power and prevention against the heat- 
ing and springing of saws. 

The gullets of the teeth and that portion of the saw plate forming 
a part of the gullet, being swaged or flanged, all of the sawdust is car- 
ried out of the cut by the motion of the saw. This is an advantage 
that will readily be appreciated by mill men, for it is quite obvious the 
friction on the sides of the saw and tendency to heat will be materially 
reduced by preventing the saw dust from wedging between the sides of 
the saw and the cut. 

The No. 10 Tooth is made in three sizes suitable for small, medium 
and large timber. 

INSERTED TOOTH RE=SAWS. 

The difficulty occasioned by wearing down or reduction in diameter 
of veneer, segment, heading and re-saws, has created a more general 
demand for an inserted tooth saw of this class, and to supply this 
want, we are now making cpiite a large proportion of our segment, 
heading, and re-saws with the improved re-saw inserted tooth, of 
which the following cut is a representation. The advantages claimed 
for this style of saw are numerous, the most important of which is that 
the original diameter of the saw is retained. This point will readily 
be seen by all practical operators and sawyers ; for the saw must be 
the proper diameter and thickness at rim and centre to give the best 
results ; if the diameter is decreased, the periphery or cutting edge is 
brought closer to the heavy centre or flange of saw, not only cutting 
out a heavier kerf, but bringing an undue strain upon both saw and 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



33 



machine and causing the pieces being sawed to take a short, sharp 
spring-ofF, and in sawing short stuff where flanged saws are used, the 
flange or collar, by its close proximity to cutting edge of saw, splits a 
portion of piece from the bolt instead of sawing it, giving very unsatis- 
factory results both as to quality and quantity of work done. There- 
fore, if the saw is right at the start, by retaining original thickness 
and size, these difficulties are entirely obviated, and to do this, inserted 
tooth saws must be used, or the solid tooth must be frequently replaced. 
This saw can be made in gauges from 14 to 17 at the rim, and by 




CAST STEEL\,/^,/WARRANTED, 




replacing the teeth when they are worn out the saw is practically 
renewed at a very trifling expense. 

These saws are no experiment, they have been used for years with 
satisfactory and economical results, and we give the same warranty 
with them that we give on all goods bearing our brand. 

We have made such improvements in our manufacturing facilities 
and brought this tooth to such a state of perfection that, all things con- 
sidered, they are the best, as well as the most economical saws used in 
the class of work for which they are intended. 



V. 



34 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



DISSTON 



GANG 



% 1 Tj I Q 



-.5..£. 



SAWS 



Our Gang Saws are made from steel that is peculiarly adapted to 
the strains to which all gang saws are subjected in use, and for quality 
of material, temper, elasticit}', tension and edge-holding qualities, we 
guarantee they have no equal. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



r^ 



Cross=Cut Saws. 



Illustrations of Different Patterns of Teeth. 



INTERNATIONAL. 



.iL.^^..^:p. 



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NEVADA. 



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PACIFIC. 






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PERFORATED OREGON. 



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OREGON. 



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THE ABOVE STYLES MADE ESPECIALLY FOR PACIFIC COAST. 



36 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



Illustrations of Different Patterns of Cross=Cut Saw Teeth. 



CHAMPION. 



iWB^ 



SO/y, 



Ct:tarrantfS\j_y3upf r r orj 
Eatra thin sack |i I 



'^'^^^^'^m'^rwww^twx^^ 



PERFORATED CHAMPION. 




|g«SS^iO.SST»VS.„^^ 



No. 1 GREAT AMERICAN. 



,l9F^pv:oiSST0N«s^l|!!i'Il!"Ii|il| 

""great AMERICAN -^t ^"" ^'^^.^f/"" ;'" , 

LUMBERMEN. 



WAf.>KANT;0\rW SUPEP I OR 




ELECTRIC. 



ililiiliflililii^^ 

ELECTRIC 



''^'LA DELP>^*'^ 



V 1n\\ jA-v j^^>W^]^^KVv^N\^'^^M^'^^ 



DIAMOND. 



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HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



37 



Illustrations of Different Patterns of Cross-Cut Saw Teeth. 



PERFORATED LANCE. 




^'^^^^^^^^^r^^^r,[\^j^P^jM^^m 






FLEAM. 




wtarrur,tc!i\£y^»Vcr I..1- 

E'.TRA THIN BACK 



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PLAIN. 




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TENON. 



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lljl CASTSTEEU Y_7 WARRANTED 

'; ' fc PATENTGROUNO f.- 




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TUTTLE. 



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The above patterns represent a general line of cross-cut saw teeth. We make 
various other styles and shapes, however, as shown in succeeding pages and in 
our catalogue. 



38 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 




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HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



39 



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:iiL^ 




THE GREAT AMERICAN. 

■ Patented. 

This saw has been subjected to the most 
severe tests, and is one of the Bkst Cross-Cut 
Saws ever offered to the public. Its most 
important advantages are as follows : 

The outer teeth of each section being 
straight, or at right angles to the pull of the 
saw, causes them to take a deeper hold in the 
fibre of the wood, while the middle or regulat- 
ing tooth determines the extent of the cut in 
proportion to the bevel of said tooth. The 
more the centre tooth is beveled the faster the 
saw cuts ; whereas, if the centre tooth is filed 
square the saw takes less hold on the log, and 
requires less nmscle to drive it. Thus the saw 
can be regulated to suit the strength of the per- 
sons working it. 

With this saw there is no " tearing of the 
zvood, zindjie friction or drag^ ' ' which in many 
other cross-cut saws demand so much muscular 
exertion without a commensurate result. 

There is no cross-cut saw in the market by 
which so much work can be done in ten hours , 
with so little exertion, as with the " 6^;r<?/ 
American Rcg2ilati?ig Cross-Cut.^' 



Section of Great American Tooth, Full Size. 




THE LUMBERMEN 

is greatly preferred in some sections of the 
country, and can be easily kept in order if 
filed according to directions, while so many of 
the fast-cutting saws of the present day lose 
their shape. 

In filing this saw, the round-edge mill-file 
should be used, and by pressing a little down- 
ward as well as sidewise the tooth is kept in 
the same shape it leaves the factory. 





40 



HENRY DISSTON & SONS' 



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HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



^ 



Disston's Universal Cross=Cut Saw Tools. 



Including a Jointer, Side Dress, Cleaner Tooth Gauge, Setting Block 

and Set Gauge. 

Fig. 1, Jointer. 




Directions for Using the Universal Cross=Cut Saw Tool. 

To properly fit up a Cross-cut saw, it is necessary ; 

First. That the teeth be uniform in length. To accomplish this 
place an eight-inch mill file edgewise in the frame and secure it by 
screws at each end. Pass the tool lightly over the teeth until touching 
the shortest cutting tooth. See Fig. 1. 

Second. Place the gauge over the cleaning teeth as shown in 
Fig. 2 and file them down to the required length. Care should be 
taken to have the cleaning teeth or rakers shorter than the cutting 
teeth. If the rakers are too long they will not allow the cutting teeth 
to come in proper contact with the work. 

Fig. 2. Ci^EANER Tooth Gauge. 




i: 



Third. Proceed with the filing, bringing each cutting tooth to a 
keen edge, using care not to file below the marks left by the jointing. 
The amount of bevel to the teeth should be determined by the class of 
timber to be cut ; hardwood requiring less bevel than soft wood. 



42 



HENRY DISS TON <2f SONS' 



Directions for Using Universal Cross=Cut Saw Tool. 

Fig. 8. Setting Bi,ock. 




Fourth. If a saw requires setting, lay the block, Fig. 3, in some 
convenient flat place and hold the tooth of saw so that the point pro- 
jects over the beveled surface fully one-quarter of an inch. Give two 
or three strokes with a light hammer, striking the tooth always about 
one-quarter of an inch from the point. Regulate the set by the use of 
set gauge Fig. 4. Use the side dress, Fig. 5, to remove any slight 
irregularity that might remain from the process of setting and to remove 
the feather edge left in filing by passing lightly along both sides, taking 
care not to disturb the sharp cutting points of the teeth. Notice always 
how the saw is filed when new and endeavor to keep it as near that 
shape as possible. 



Fig. 4. Set Gauge. 



Fig. 5. Side Dresser. 




Gauge for Regulating Cleaning Teeth. 




Showing the gauge in position for lilmg the cleaner-tooth. 

The cleaning teeth of all saws should be somewhat shorter than 
the cutting teeth, and although shortened, should be of uniform length 
throughout. 

The inner edge of the gauge rests on the points of the cutting 
teeth, the cleaner tooth projecting through the opening in the centre of 
gauge. File the projecting point until arrested by the edge of the gauge, 
which is made of hardened steel. Thus tooth after tooth can be rapidly 
and correctly reduced to an even length by any unskilled operator. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



43 



PATENT CROSS=CUT HANDLES. 






ONE MAN. 



Straiorht 



SUPPLEMENTARY IDEAL ONE MAN. 

ONE MAN. 




Reversed 



No. 7 REVERSIBLE HANDLES. 



v\ 



No. 15 
UNIVERSAL. 







A complete and perfect handle, so 
constructed that it may be used at any 
angle with a guard for protection of 
the hand. 



No. 16 
DUPLO 




A double grip handle with guard 
for the hand. 



44 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



PATENT CROSS=CUT HANDLES. 



No. 4 PLAIN 



No. 3 



No. 3 LOOP HANDLE. 

No. 13 EXTRA HEAVY LOOP. 

The loose cone shape washer has been dropped 
in cut to show the manner in which it is fitted to 
lllll the handle. 



No. 13 



No. 6 
VIM LOOP. 




No. 22 
TRIUMPH 





No. 12 
EXTRA 
HEAVY 
CLIMAX. 



No. 2 
CLIMAX 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



45 



INSTRUCTIONS 



FOR 



Settingf and Sharpening: 




Hammering and Adjusting 



THE TENSION OF 



Circular and Other 5aws, 



46 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



HINTS FOR COLD WEATHER. 

As many saws are broken in winter, owing to the great risk in 
sawing frozen timber, the greatest care should be taken to prevent any 
midne strain. Keep the points out full, square and sharp, or the 
saw will dodge out of the cut, particularly in slabbing, as the corners 
on the log side do the most cutting and soon get dull in sawing knotty 
frozen timber. Use no more set than is absolutely necessary ; have 
the teeth widest at the extreme points, but do not have them weak ; 
taper the set nicely from point to back. Sharp corners should never 
be filed in the gullets as cracks are sure to start from such misuse of the 
saw, particular!}^ in cold weather. 



CUT=OFF SAWS. 





Cut A shows proper shape of tooth for cross-cutting soft wood. 
Cut B shows tooth best adapted to cutting hard wood. 



V 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



47 



The jTfreat loss in the breaking of cross-cut or circular cut-off saws 
to the mill man and manufacturer of saws, induces us to call particular 
attention to the general neglect in the keeping of these saws in order 
for the work they have to perform, for there is not the same care given 
to a cut-off as there is to the larger saws for ripping lumber. 

Nearly every case of broken cut-off saws that has come under our 
notice, has been caused by the careless manner in which they lia\'e been 
filed or gummed ; if the time, labor and files consumed in filing the long 
bevel down the backs and fronts of teeth, were used in filing the gullets 
down with a round file, or cutting them out carefully with a round face 
emery wheel, many saws would be saved and much less power con- 
sumed, as filing long bevels on the teeth forms square notches in the 
gullets, which will cause cracks to start, besides preventing free circu- 
lation of saw dust. See Cut C. 

The bevel on cross-cut 
saws should never extend 
into the gullets ; in fact only 
the points of the teeth need 
beveling. The remainder of 
the tooth and gullets should 
be dressed straight across, 
as shown by cut D. In 
heavy cutting the front of 
the tooth should be filed 
with very little or no 
bevel, as shown in cut K. 
This will prevent much of the lateral strain and chattering caused 
by the teeth being forced 
out of line into the sides 
of the cut. Saws are fre- 
quently broken from this 
cause, particularly if they 
are dull . Many saw5^ers 
have adopted the method 
of filing every seventh 
tooth square, front and 
back. See cut F. 

This removes the core 
or V from the kerf and prevents much of the lateral strain ; these teeth 
must be just a trifle shorter than those beveled. 

Since the introduction of emery wheels, saws of all kinds have been 
subjected to greater risks than formerly. The emery wheel, however, 
is here to stay, and the only thing to do is to give the saw a fair chance 




C. 



D. 




E. 



48 



HENRY DISSTON & SONS' 



in cotniec lon with its use. The rough, ragged edges, at least should 
be carefully renlo^•ed with a file, and care taken that the steel is not 
case-hardened ; in fact, saws under no circumstances should be sub- 
jected to a strain of any kind, direct from the use of an emery wheel 
or a punch gummer. 




Cut-off saws, with the front of the tooth undercut into a round 
gullet are the best (see cuts G and H ). If the teeth are kept in this 
form, less time will be required in filing, and the bad results from 
running a dull saw would be prevented; use as little set as possible • 
file as soon as saw becomes dull, thus saving time and power, reduc- 
ing the strain and liability of breakage of the saw. 




We can furnish cut-off saws with rounded or undercut gullets as 
shown above and give any desired amount of rake or space of teeth. 



r 



HAND-BOOK I'OR LUMBERMEN. 



49 



TRAMMEL FOR CIRCULAR SAW TEETH. 




The above cut represents a device for laying out and keeping in 
order the teeth of circular saws. By its use the teeth can be kept in 
proper shape, regular in depth, and an equal amount of pitch given to 
the front of each tooth. 

To rod A is attached chuck B, which holds a steel point for mark- 
ing a circle for the bottom of the teeth. If all of the teeth are on this 
circle, they will be equal in depth. The strip of steel (C) can be set at 
any distance between the centre and the edge of the saw, and it will 
give the same pitch to the front of each tooth. The ordinary pitch is 
that which is obtained by placing the steel strip at a distance of three- 
fifths from the centre towards the edge of the saw-plate. There is a 
diversity of opinion concerning the proper pitch to be given to the 
fronts of teeth; knotty timber requires less than clear timber; with light 
power and light feed more can be used. The pitch can be increased by 
moving the steel strip nearer to the edge of the saw, but should the teeth 
become weakened, the backs or tops of the teeth should be strengthened, 
or they will either break or chatter in the work. Price, $2,50, net. 



50 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



PATENT QULLET=TOOTH CIRCULAR SAW. 
One of the most Valuable and Useful Improvements of the Age. 



\ 








r 







By reference to the above engraving, it will be obser\^ed that the 
back or point-line of each tooth is the continuation of the spiral lines Z, 
and the sharpening is mainly done by the reduction of the gullet or 
throat only. This is readily accomplished by the use of our patent 
gummers. (See pages 54 to 56.) 

The course pursued by this cutter is spiral, and while it is in the 
act of reducing the front or throat of tooth D, it is prolonging the back 
or point-line of tooth C. The engraving represents a two-inch tooth or 
gullet. The saw B is the saw A worn down. When the saw has been 
reduced on centre line from G to F, it has been worn away but six 
inches, yet has presented a cutting surface on spiral line Z from G to 
y, a distance of twenty-four inches. But this is only one of the advan- 
tages claimed for our patent gullet-tooth. The throat or gullet being 



HAND-BOOK POR LUMBERMEN. 



51 



chambered out on a half circle, forms a larger receptacle or chamber 
for dust, and thus a one-and-a-half-inch tooth of this pattern will keep 
a saw as free from chokiui^ as a two-inch tooth of the ordinary shape. 
The saving of the saw-plate by the use of a smaller tooth is evi- 
dent to the most casual observer. 

Portable mills sawing hard and soft woods usually run a light feed. 
In this case a very shallow tooth is desirable. A shallow tooth will cut 
the smoothest lumber; but, if a heavy feed is carried a deeper chamber 
or more teeth is required. What we wish to do is to give a tooth, 
where we can, to suit the feed and kind of work. 

In sharpening a great saving in time and files is effected by taking 
a good, deep, full cut, instead of a light, scraping one. As stated in a 
previous article, a tooth becomes dull on its face in proportion to the 
de])th of cut taken at each revolution of the saw; for instance, when 
each tooth cuts a thirt>-second of an inch, it takes thirty-two teeth to 
cut one inch, whereas when each tooth cuts one-eighth of an inch, it 
takes only eight teeth to cut the same amount. In other words, the 
fibre or grain of the lumber has to be broken thirty-two times in one 
instance, and only eight times in the other; and when the tooth 
starts to break the fibre one-eighth of ? fic*. 

an inch in the log, it will do it with e-;:^eii__ ..c 
nearh' as much ease and consume very c- °""%:n'^^''~^^~----^ a 
little more power than if the cut was a "\^-.c 

thirty-second of an inch. Of course 
one tooth, in this example, becomes 
dull for one-eighth of an inch under 
the point, and the other only one thirty- 
second of an inch, but it consumes as 
much saw-plate, time and files to bring ""--./ifi, 

up one tooth as the other; it is, how- " "''-'?''^/ip 

ever, easy to overdo the thing; there is F>l'«g back on the Periphery Line. 
reason in this as well as in anything else. On tooth, Fig. 4, dotted line 
/) shows where the point first wears; dotted line CCC shows how it 
should be filed back on the periphery line; but, too frequently, on 
p account of the long surface to be filed, 

operators file the top of the tooth only 
as represented by the dotted line D. 
It is plain to be seen that by filing 
back on the dotted line CCC you 
have only diminished j'our saw from 
dotted line E to F, while by filing 
from the top you have diminished your 
saw, as shown by dotted lines, from 
Showing Old and New Style Tooth. E to D. 

This shows that by filing on top 
five times as much of the saw has been wasted as by proper filing. 
This difficulty is overcome by the use of our new tooth, as represented 
by cut Fig. 5. 

Fig. 5 shows the outlines of both straight tooth and the gullet 
tooth; by using the latter only a small space is left to file and gives no 
excuse for filing on top. 





r 



52 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 




Engraving of Tooth after cutting 300,000 feet of Lumber. 



The above cut represents a section of our gullet-tooth saw (kept 
in order by Chambering Machine) after cutting 300,000 feet of hem- 
lock lumber. Dotted line D and point A show the original diameter of 
the saw; dotted line /f and point Cshow the saw after cutting the above 
amount of lumber, only reducing the diameter of saw about three-six- 
teenths of an inch, as can be plainly seen between dotted lines D and E. 
According to this, a fifty-inch saw will cut 3,200,000 feet and only 
reduce the diameter of saw to forty-eight inches. You will thus per- 
ceive the great advantage derived by using our Patent Tooth and 
Gummer. 

' '" " The accompanying cut is a fac- 

simile of the condition of the teeth of 
a large circular saw sent to our factory 
to be gummed. The parties had been 
using some gummer upon the saw, 
which actually did more harm than 
good; as shown by line B the ragged 
throat so obstructed the circulation of 
saw dust that the parties were com- 
pelled to send it to the factory to be 
gummed out. Dotted line C shows 
the condition the gullet would have 
been in had our chambering machines 
been used upon it. 
Figs. 7 and 8 show, by periphery lines, the difference in the wear 
of the saw. We will here remark that it is of the greatest import- 




Bad Chambering. 

(Reduced to one-half natural size.) 



HANDBOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



53 



ance to file back on these periphery lines. It will be seen by this 
tooth the point on the face is very small. The smaller it is the less 
filing it takes to keep it sharp. One stroke of the lile on this point will 
effect more than ten strokes on the face of a tooth that has to be kept 
back from point to bottom of gullet ; and when there is so little point to 




Tooth for Soft Wood. 

keep back, it will be found easier to sharpen the saw from the face than 
to iile from the top, and a saving in the diameter of saw is effected. 
When we know the kind of lumber to be sawn, the speed, feed 
and capacity of mill, we will make the teeth best suited for the work, 
save waste of saw and extra time it would require to keep unsuitable 
teeth in order. For instance, for one-inch feed, we should not (where 




Teeth for Hard Wood. 

our gummer is used) give over one-and-a-quarter-inch depth of tooth, 
for a five-inch feed, not less than fifty teeth, and depth to correspond ; 
for a three-inch feed, we would give thirty-two teeth. The gullets of the 
saw should be chambered out, or gummed as soon as the teeth have 




been worn back enough to allow the file to strike the back of the 
chamber as shown in Fig. 9, tooth A. 



54 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS 



THE VICTOR PATENT SELF=FEEDINQ SAW GUMMER. 




Fig. 1. 



We call special attention to this machine, as being superior to an}' 
other gunnner in the market ; which fact will pro\-e itself upon trial. 
The Victor is made of the very best material ; the lighter parts being 
of malleable iron and the shaft of steel, making it lighter and at 
the same time stronger than other gummers. Its simplicity of con- 
struction makes it unnecessary to give any instruction for use, as an 
examination of the cuts will enable anybody to operate it. The Victor 
will gum all saws, from a small circular saw, with a 3 8 inch gullet, to 
the largest made, with 1% inch gullet ; also all mill, mulay and cross- 
cut saws. Cut No. 1 shows the Victor gunimer in position for work on 
a sixty-inch circular saw, and No. 2 on a gang or mill saw. The self- 
feeding mechanism can be regulated to fast or slow speed without any 
change of parts, and the machine can be changed from hand to self feed 
in an instant. The adjustable stop throws out the feed pawl at any 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



55 



THE VICTOR PATENT SELF=FEEDINQ SAW GUMMER. 




Fig. 2. 

required depth of tooth. This gummer is fitted with three sizes of 
arbor. In ordering be sure to state which size is wanted. The large 
size is suitable for the following cutters: 1 inch, A-Y?, inch, 1^ inch, 
\yi inch, and 1^ inch. The medium size is suitable for Yz inch, 
y% inch, ^4 inch, and "/k inch cutters. The small size is suitable for 
yk inch cutters. Each gummer sent complete with one arbor of either 
size, three cutters, cutter grinder and wrench. Extra arbors furnished 
at !#12.00 each. For range of work this machine has no superior. 



GUMMER CUTTERS. 





When ordering state size of cutter and arbor hole. 



56 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



No. 1 PATENT DOUBLE=QEARED SAW 
GUMMER, OR CHAMBERING MACHINE 
FOR LARGE CIRCULAR SAWS. 

Cutter-Grinder and three cutters of either size 1,1^ 
1], 1^ or \\ inches, with each machine. 




DIRECTIONS FOR USING. 

Before using the giitiimer see that the oil holes are clear. A few 
drops of oil will be sttfficient for from three to five hotirs' itse. After 
using the gannner remove the chips or turnings that accumulate back 
of the cutter. If allowed to remain they will cause trotible by getting 
into the working parts of the machine. Run the cutter back by means 
of screw G as far as necessary. Then place the machine on the saw, 
with the cutter close up in the chamber of the tooth to be gummed. 

If the teeth are regular and the same distance apart, start the ctit- 
ter in any chamber ; btit if they are irregtilar, make them even by com- 
mencing in the smallest tooth. After gumming the saw a few times 
the teeth must become regular. E is a set screw to regulate the depth 
of gullet. Fasten the machine to the saw by means of the screws ///>, 
and proceed to gum the first tooth, one of the points of the star l)eing 
struck at each revohition by a projection on the handle the cutter is 
steadily fed in until aiTested by set screw E. Remove the machine to 
the next tooth, after having riin the cutter back and proceed as before 
itntil all the teeth are gummed. Shotild the gullet or chamber be worn 
smooth, and the cutter fail to bite, rough the gullet with a file. The 
cutter is so arranged as to slide on its axis, and when one portion 
becomes dull, by removing a washer from back to front, a new sharp 
cutting sm-face will be presented, so continuing to change the washers 
until the whole face of the cutter becomes dtill. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



hi 



To take the cutter off the sliaft, put the pin, luinghig to the gum- 
iiier, in the hole in the ratchet wheel //, to keep the shaft from turning 
while unscrewing the nut, which has a left-hand thread. The hand 
wheel on end of feed screw, outside of the star, is to allow the operator 
to feed easil}^ and gentl}^ with the hand when starting in to cut rough 
gullets, until the cutter gets a bearing, when by tightening the jam-nut 
on opposite side of star, the machine is made self-feeding. Therachtt 
by which the cutter is moved, eifectually prevents any l)ack motion, 
which has hitherto been a serious objection. 

This gummer is a most invaluable machine, and should be in the 
hands of every mill-man. It saves power, files and time, and is so simple 
in its mode of operation that any one of ordinary intelligence can be 
taught to use it. We pronounce this the best gummer ever manu- 
factured. 



CUTTER GRINDER FOR HOLDING THE CUTTER OF CHAM= 

BERING MACHINE IN POSITION DURING PROCESS 

OF SHARPENING. 




To Grind the Cutters 



the stone should have a perfectly straight face and turn from the 
operator. Lower the adjustable frame of grinder until the cutter 
touches the stone, then adjust spring in proper position. When prop- 
erly adjusted, the backs of teeth of cutters can be ground so the cutting 
edge will be a little the highest and the cutters round and sharp. 
Furnished with either No. 1, 2 or .'i (Pin ) shaft. 



58 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



~\ 



LIST OF PARTS OF VICTOR SAW GUMMER. 




1, Plate; 2, Shaft; 8, No. 1 Racliet ; 4, Wrench; 5, Brass Gauge; 6, No. 2 
Ratchet Sprnig ; 7, Feed Screw; 8, Stop Gauge; 9, Stop; 10, Crank; 11, Throw; 
12, No. 1 Ratchet Spring ; 13, Stand ; 14, No. 1 Pawl ; 15, Ball Lever ; 16, Car- 
riage ; 17. Ball Lever Spring ; 18, Long Clamp ; 19, No. 2 Pawl ; 20, Short Clamp ; 
21, No. 2 Feed Ratchet ; 22, Cam. 

LIST OF PARTS OF No. 1 5AW GUMMER. 




1, Star; 2, Arm; o. Frame; 4, Large Wrench; 5, Small Wrench; 0, Swivel 
Bearing; 7, Left Hand Crank; 8, Cutter Shaft; 9, Feed Screw; 10, Crank Shaft; 
11, Gauge; 12, Gauge ; 13, Swivel Nut ; 14, Cross Handle ; 15, Right Hand Crank ; 
16, Ratchet ; 17, Ratchet Spring; 18, Large Gear Wheel; 19, Pawl ; 20, Out Bear- 
ing ; 21, Wrought Iron Gauge ; 22, Collar for Feed Screw. 

When ordering, specify the No. of part wanted, whether for Victor or No. 1 
Gummer, Prices quoted on application. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



59 



DISSTON HAND SCREW PRESS. 




No. 2 Press, Fitted for Gumming Bandsaws. 



This Press is made in two sizes or weights, and of a style render- 
ing it strong and durable for punching, slotting, toothing or shearing 
piir])oses. 

The No. 1 Press weighs 460 lbs., and is adapted for gumming 
saws or punching steel up to 5 gauge {^^^ inch ) in thickness. 

The No. 2 Press weighs 250 lbs. and will gum saws up to 8 gauge 
(tj'V inch; in thickness. 

The abo\-e illustration shows the No. 2 Press fitted for retoothing 
Bandsaws. Special dies and punches, or shear blades, will be ftirnished 
on order. 

This is a very desirable and powerful machine, and we recommend 
it as superior to any other pattern for retoothing Band, Gang and 
other saws, as well as for general ptirposes. 



STANDARD SHAPE OF BANDSAW TOOTH. 




Special shapes or spaced teeth made to order. 



V 



GO 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



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HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



61 



be -- o 




62 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 







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HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



H8 



SIDE-FILE. 



W?^~" ''" fA 




Double Spread Tooth. 



The Gridley Tooth. 



Spring and Spread Tooth. 

The above cuts show the different 
sets for saw teeth. 

The dotted lines show the undercut. 

Made in Three Sizes. 



It is impossible to set or swage a saw so that some of the teeth will 
not overhang, or are not bent over or swaged more than others. The 
slightest difference in the temper or variation in shape causes the teeth 
to set mild or rigid ; this defect in the set, no matter how slight, must 
produce rough lumber. The difficulty can be overcome by the use of 
our side-file, an instrument invaluable to every sawyer or lumberman. 
It is used for the purpose of regtdating saw teeth after they have been set, 
and can be adjusted to any width of set required. It removes the 
extreme points, and brings every tooth in perfect line on a firm foun- 
dation and cutting-edge. 

Every point is brought up to its work, leaving no vacant corners ; 
no weak, flimsy, or extreme points, such as are left by the ordinary 
way of setting and sharpening. By the use of this tool, the set of every 
tooth is made even ; a saw thus regulated will run longer withotit 
resharpening. The file must be so adjusted by means of the set screws 
as to conform to the width of set desired. The jam-nuts are for the 
purpose of securing the set screws in the desired position. When the 
side-file has been properly adjusted it must be held in position by means 
of the clips A , against the saw blade, the points of the set screws B only 
touching the blade. Each tooth in succession must be filed until the 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



set of the tooth conforms to the gauge of the set screws. Thus, all 
uneven or overhanging corners will be removed. 

When ordering, state plainly whether holder is wanted or only file 
for holder, or the side-file complete, and diameter of saw for which it 
is to be used. 

GAUGE BY WHICH TO FILE AND REGULATE THE SHAPE 

OF SAW=TEETH. 








A tooth cannot be swaged or upset to advantage unless filed 
sharp and to the proper shape. To do this without a gauge requires 
considerable practice and experience. Taking for granted the back of 
the tooth is in good shape, the swaging must be done from the under 
side ; this gives the proper rake and saves the saw. After the teeth are 
swaged, a few touches with the ordinary file and side-file complete the 
work. This gauge will be furnished gi-atuitously on application. 



THE GRIDLEY TOOTH. 

Fig. a. 




The attention of our readers is especially called to Figs. A and B. 
They are representations of the Gridley tooth, spring and spread set 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



65 



Fig. B. 




combined. Fig. A represents a portion of a saw in proper order for 
work, and Fig. B shows how the teeth become worn and rounded by use. 
Where the power is light and the .sawing tough, this tooth, kept in 
proper order, will accomplish wonders. The cutting points viJist be kept 
up square and full , as shown in Fig. A; for, when they become dull and 
rounded, as .shown in Fig. B, it requires more power to run the saw, 
and makes inferior lumber. 

In sharpening this or any other tooth, the filing .should be done 
almost exclusively on the under side; the top should only be filed suf- 
ficiently to keep the tooth in proper shape. 

HOW TO FILE CIRCULAR SAWS. 



V. 



In a great many instances the persons who file circular saws pay 
no regard to the shape of the teeth; they get them into all kinds of 
shapes but the right one, as shown in engravings on next page. 

The dotted lines on Fig. 2, page 45, represent the teeth in proper 
shape as they leave the factory ; and the lines at B, C and D show the 
condition in which they are frequently sent to us for repair. In these 
teeth there is no chamber for the circulation of dust. At the same time 
this kind of filing wears away the saw five times as fast, and consumes 
three times as many files as would be required to do the work properly. 
But these are only a portion of the evil results. Teeth filed with sharp, 
square corners at the bottom frequently break, as shown at A, tooth C. 
It is lamentable to see this state of things when it can be so easily 
avoided. 

We have many saws returned for repairs, that break in cold 
weather by reason of these sharp corners. They are ruinous to the saw 
in many ways. If the teeth are kept in the shape they leave us, this 
trouble and expense will be avoided. The moment the teeth commence 



66 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



.'-7 

•' / 



F/G.2 




to get in bad shape, the saw begins to suffer in diameter, from the fact 
that the filer, wishing to get his points shanp with least amount of 
filing, files from the top instead of the face of the tooth. This does not 
help him one particle, but rather the reverse ; and every stroke of the 
file on the top wears the saw away more than five strokes on the face 
or under side of the tooth. 

REVOLVING SAW=SET. 




A good set for small circular saws, or saws with small teeth. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



67 



IMPROVED ADJUSTABLE SETTINQ STAKE 
FOR CIRCULAR SAWS. 




This valuable tool can be adjusted to set " ' ~^^ - 
any saw from six to thirty inches in diameter. 
The cone A is moved in or out to suit the diameter of the saw, and 
raised or lowered as may be required. The moveable anvil at B is made 
of hardened steel, and some portions of the face being beveled more 
than others, the operator can regulate the amount of set as desired. 






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68 HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



HAMMERING AND ADJUSTING CIRCULAR 

SAWS. 



The many inquiries we have in regard to the method of hammer- 
ing and adjusting the tension in saws has induced us to print a few 
simple instructions on the subject, which if carefully followed can not 
l3e otherwise than a benefit to beginners and others seeking information 
in this line. All saws of whatsoever kind, if properly made, are what 
we will call ' ' loose, ' ' through or towards the centre to suit the different 
kinds of work for which they are intended. The object is to keep the 
edge strained on a straight line, to prevent it from chattering or cutting 
a zig-zag kerf through the timber ; what applies to any one kind of 
saw in the method of hammering, applies to all. The circular saw, 
however, is the most difficult to treat, and even after the most careful 
instructions we could give, would require practical experience and 
close observation on the part of those having these saws in charge, 
before they can successfully hammer them. 

The strain in running and the process of gumming will stretch the 
edge of the saw and it will begin to run snakey, rattle in the guides and 
make bad lumber. However, before concluding that the saw must be 
hammered to adjust the tension, see if there is not some other cause for 
the trouble, such as improper lining, the adjustment of the guides, the 
collars ; the saw out of balance and the dressing of the teeth ; these 
matters, however, are all referred to in this hand-book, and are only 
mentioned here for those who have not had experience. Our object 
being to treat here on the hammering necessary to keep the saw true 
and in proper tension, which means that it must be open sufficiently 
and properly from the edge towards the centre to suit the motion of 
saw and feed of the mill. 

What is required in the way of tools is an anvil, one round-face 
and one cross-face hammer, two straight-edges, one from 14 to 18 
inches long, one about 48 inches long, and one try-mandrel ; we find 
that these tools for fitting up saws are being put in many of the large 
mills ; the men who handle the saws are making themselves proficient 
in the hammering of the saws to suit their wants ; this knowledge they 
have acquired by perseverance and practical experience, the only way 
in which it can be obtained. 

In studying the matter of how to hammer circular saws, it would 
be as well for those who have to take charge of them, to examine the 
saws as to the tension when first received, taking for granted that they are 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 




right as to the hammering when they leave the maker ; for all the saws 




Fig. 2. 



70 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



made by us will be as true as it is possible to make them, and will 
appear for tension as shown by figure 1 to a greater or less extent, 
according to the speed and feed to be used. A saw that has lost its 
tension will show as at figure 2 and needs hammering with a round-face 




KiG. 3. 



Fig. 4. 



hammer, as shown by figure 3, but before commencing to hammer to 
restore the tension, examine or test the saw all around as in figure 5, 
and if any part of the saw between edge and centre falls away from the 
straight-edge, mark around this spot as shown by figure 4, and do not 




HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



71 



hammer a. much, if any, at that place. In testing for the tension, be 
su e to have the straight-edge at right angles with that part c>f the saw 
resting <.n the board and the opposite edge which is ben,g raised with 
the left hand, while the straight-edge is held and gently pressed down 




Fig. 6. 



with the right hand. Do not lean the straight-edge to one side but 
hold it up straight, or it will fall to the form of the saw and no show 
what is desired. A straight-edge reaching from the centre hole weil 
out to the edge of the saw is the best to use in hammering to regulate 
the tension, and when this straight-edge is applied as above, the saw 



72 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



should fall away from a straight line as shown by figure 5 ; this will 
show that the centre of the saw is stiff, as it must always be to run 
properly and do good work, and if a short straight-edge about (> inches 
long was pressed directly over the centre, it would show the saw to be 
nearly flat or of equal tension at that part. We will here say that it 
is very seldom necessary to hammer a saw at the part covered by the 
collars. 

When ready to hammer, as at figure 8, see that the face of ham- 
mer is ground so that the blow will be round and do not strike too 
heavy, for it is better to go over the saw a number of times than to 




Fig. 7. 



hammer too much at one operation, and put the saw in worse shape 
than it was before it was hammered. 

After hammering one side, mark off the other side and repeat the 
operation with as near as possible the same number and weight of 



c ^ 

HAND-BOOK FOR LUMB ERMEN. ^73 * 

blows as stnick on the first side and as directly over them as can be 
done. Now, stand the saw on the floor ; hold it up straight and test 
it with the long straight-edge as shown by figure <> ; if the hammering 
has been done alike on both sides, the saw will be very nearly true ; if, 
however, it shows full on one side and dishing on the other, mark these 
places that are full. 

Place the saw on the anvil with the round side up ; hammer lightly 
on full places ; test again with the long straight-edge, and if it appears 
true, put it on the anvil and test it as explained, to see if it has the 
proper tension ; if not, repeat the operation with the round-face ham- 
mer until desired tension is obtained. After again testing with long 
straight-edge, put the saw on the try-mandrel to test it with the short 
straight-edge for running true. This mandrel must also be true, 




Fig. 8. 

which can be determined by changing the position of the saw on the 
mandrel to see if the same parts of the saw run off and on at the 
pointer. Mark the places as they run on or off as shown by figure 7, 
while turning the saw slowly around, and where the saw runs off, 
lumps will be found most likely as at 1, 1, 1, or what is termed twist 
lumps as at 2, 2, 2 of figure 8, or both may occur; these lumps must 
be taken out with a cross-face hammer and struck as shown in the 
direction that the straight-edge shows the lumps to run. The saw may 
also be thrown out of true by lumps running toward the centre as No. 
o, figure 8; in this case the saw will be on or off at points about oppo- 
site each other. This part of the hammering nuist be done carefull}', 
and if the hammer is of the proper weight and the face properly ground, 
the saw can be made to run true without altering the tension to any 



74 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



great extent. The testing on the mandrel by an inexperienced hand 
should be done with the full side of the saw towards the pointer, and 
by knocking down the lumps from that side, will make the plate flat ; 
when the saw is fairly flat, test from both sides and operate in like 




Fig. 9. 



manner and get same results. Now put saw on the arbor and if for a 
high motion, it wall sway gently from side to side in getting up to fuL 
speed and then run steady and do its work, but if it acts as hereto- 
fore stated (runs snakey and rattles in the guides), it needs to be made 
more open toward the centre. An experienced man, however, will 
stand the saw on the floor, taking hold at the top edge and give it a 
sudden shake, and if the centre vibrates and the edge stands stiff", he 



J 



r 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



75 



knows it to be open towards the centre. He will also test by leaning 
the saw over, to see if it falls away from the straight-edge sufficiently 
as shown by figure 1>, and consequently knows it to be right before 
putting it on the arbor. If the saw is too open at the centre it will run 
from side to side, mostly out of the log, and needs to be hammered 
as shown by figure 10, and the distance to hammer in from the edge 
depends upon where the loose parts are on the saw ; if the centre is 
loose on line 1 , hammer to that line ; if to line 2 or 3, hammer to those 




V. 



Fig. 10. Fig. 11. 

lines, or the looseness may be irregular, as shown by figure 31, and 
needs to be hammered as shown to regulate the tension ; after this is 
done proceed, as explained, with cross-face hammer to free saw from 
twists and lumps to make it run true. If the saw should be buckled 
by an accident, true it with the cross-face hammer as explained by 
figures 6, 7 and S before regulating tension and final truing ; do the 
same in case of buckling by burned spots or sharp lumps over the 
collar line ; to remove or level these lumps, lay two thicknesses of 
strong, heavy paper on the anvil, place the saw on the anvil with the 
spot or lump resting on the paper and by giving a few well directed 
blows the lumps can be hammered down without expanding the metal 
as it would if straightened on the bare face of anvil. When hammer- 
ing with the round-face hammer, work on hues drawn from the edge 
towards the centre ; this will prevent putting twist lumps in the saw 
and obviate much of the trouble in truing with cross-face ham- 
mer. It is very important to have the blows distributed properly over 
the surface to be hammered. Hammering too much at one place would 
cause a loose spot or lump that would be difficult to take out, or burn 
a blue spot on the saw in the cut. 

If it is necessary to go over the hammering more than once for 
tension, make lines between those that have already been operated on. 



76 HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 

The dressing of the faces of the hammers is important ; the round face 
should l)e nicely rounded so that if a light blow was struck on the oiled 
surface of the saw, it should show about half inch in diameter ; the 
cross-face so that it would show a blow three-quarter by three-eighth 
inch, for a sharp cutting blow is not effective in either knocking down 
a lump or stretching the metal. 

In concluding to these instructions, we make the following sugges- 
tions to beginners : 

Do not be discouraged by the failure of first attempts ; make your- 
self perfectly familiar with instructions given and persevere in properly 
applying them. 

Carefully study the amount of opening the saw requires towards 
the centre for tension to suit the motion and feed used, and for regu- 
lating this, always use the round-face hammer. 

The stem of the try-mandrel need only be one inch or less in diam- 
eter and bushings used for larger arbor holes. 

Beginners in the art of hammering shovild take a small circular 
cross-cut saw (for this class of saws, as a rule, are given very little 
attention in the mills ) , one that can be easily handled ; go through the 
operation as instructed and, if successful it will show advancement in 
the art and the ability to operate on larger saws without the same risk 
of failure. 

In regard to large Circular saws cracking and breaking over the 
collar line ; the saws when first put in use have been hammered, or 
left open enough for a certain speed. If the speed is reduced while in 
the cut, the saw will run either in or out of the log (most generally 
out), forming as it were, a wedge between the saw and headblocks, 
eventually cracking or breaking the saw at or near the collar line by 
forcing it over this rigid point, hence the importance of maintaining a 
uniform speed and having the tension adapted to it. In mills where 
steam feed is used great care should be taken not to crowd the feed on 
the saw when it looses its speed from any cause, such as insufficient 
boiler, engine or belt power, for if the feed is not decreased in propor- 
tion to the speed, the saw will be " crowded out " and forced over the 
collar the same as though the tension was not properly adjusted. 



r 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



11 



ANVIL, HAMHERS and STRAIGHT EDGES for REPAIRING SAWS. 




The above cut represents the tools necessary for altering or adjust- 
ing the tension of circular saws. (See page 68). 



SWAGE BAR AND HAMMER 




i"' " ■iiiiiJriifHijiiiiii!llH^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 




The above cut represents our swage bar and hammer for use on 
circular and gang saws. We make the hammers in two sizes ; the bars 
of any shape, size or weight desired. 



V. 



78 



HENRY DISSTON & SONS' 



Automatic Sharpener. 

FOR CIRCULAR SAWS. 




By the use of this machine the teeth are kept of the same shape 
and size throughout. 

The gate is so inclined that the wheel drops to the throat before 
it comes in contact with the face of the tooth, thus avoiding burning 
or case-hardening the points of the teeth. 

We are prepared to supply machines for sharpening all kinds and 
sizes of saws. Detailed description with prices, directions for operat- 
mg, etc., will be furnished on application. 



V. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



79 



CIRCULAR SAW MANDRELS, with pulley on end. 
Of the Latest and Most approved Style. 




Our stock mandrels with pulley ou end or in centre range in sizes 
suitable for saws 10 to 38 inches in diameter. Special sizes made to 
order. 

A mandrel should not be too light for the work to be done or it 
will spring, causing it to heat. See that the bearings are well propor- 
tioned and fitted. All bearings should be at least three times as long 
as diameter of mandrel : longer would be no detriment. The boxes 
should fit neatly enough to prevent lost motion, but not so tightly on 
the quarters as to cut off the supply of oil. One of the main causes of 
mandrels heating is want of proper lubrication. The cutting of chan- 
nels from the front side of bottom half of boxes running down and under 
shaft to point of hardest bearing will be a great benefit in all cases ; 
then use a good heavy body oil or lubricant. In some mills where 
three bearings are used ou the mandrel, heating is caused by getting 
bearings out of line when shifting for lead or adjustment. Again, some 
arbors have the collars for preventing end motion against the box 
nearest the saw ; they should be on the other end, as the bearing 
nearest the saw has the most strain on it at all times. Heating is often 
caused by a short and tight belt ; where there is trouble with a heating 
journal and slipping belt, it would be advisable, as well as economy, 
to increase the diameter of the receiving pulley on mandrel, even at the 
sacrifice of some of the speed. Belts should be of good length, and 
in all cases should have the strain on the lower side and slack on the 
top ; then when practicable, put a balanced tightener or stress pulley 
on the top, placing it so that it will give as much lap of belt on the 
pulley as possible; this, with the balanced tightener, will take much 
strain off the mandrel, rendering it less liable to heat. A saw running 
badly from other causes, by undue crowding and straining, will fre- 
quently cause a mandrel to heat that would otherwise run cool. See 
suggestions on keeping saw and mill in order. 



80 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



YOKE MANDREL. 
Cast Steel. 




CAST STEEL MANDREL. 
Connected Boxes. 




Cast Steel Yoke Mandrel 

Size of Diameter Face of Diameter Diameter Hole Mandrel Distance from 

Saw. of Pulley. Pulley, of Collar, of Shaft, in Saw. Distance from end of Shaft 

Pulley to Saw. to Saw. 



No. ], 10 in. 4 in. 

2, 14 in. 4.] " 

3, 18 in. 5 " 

4, 24 in. 6 " 

5, 28 in. 7 " 

6, 36 in. 8 " 



4^ 
5 
5 
6i 



3| ' 

4 ' 

^\ ' 

5 ' 
5i ' 



n. l-rV in. 


1 in 


' lA " 


n " 


' lA " 


ij " 


' lA " 


13 < ' 


' lA " 


1^ " 


' iH " 


1| " 



18 in. 


17 in 


21 " 


20 " 


24 " 


23 " 


26 " 


25 " 


28 " 


27 " 


30 " 


29 " 



Measurements for length are taken from inside edge of pulley to 



saw 



V. 



The boxes of these mandrels being yoked or connected makes it 
impossible for the journals to get out of line with each other, as fre- 
quently occurs in small table mandrels. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



81 



KEYSTONE GROOVER HEAD. 
For Cutting: Grooves from y% inch wide to any width desired. 




Outside Cutter. 

Showing outline of inside cutter. 





Groover Head Complete. 




Inside Cutter. 

All inside and outside cutters are yi inch thick except one only 
inside cutter which is y g- inch thick thus permitting the cutting of any 
size groove varying by sixteenths from ]/% inch to any width desired by 
using necessary number of inside cutters. 



82 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



~-\ 



WABBLE SAW. 




The above cut represents a Wabble Saw thrown from a perpendicular 
to a given angle with the axis of the arbor. 

The purpose is to produce a channel or kerf exceeding in width the 
thickness of the saw or its set. .Two collars .are furnished, turned equal 
tapers, one of which is marked 0, the other is graduated from to 
16 upon part of its periphery, for the purpose of establishing a known 
width of channel or kerf, for a given size saw. Set the collars at 0, 
and the saw wall run perpendicular to its axis, or, produce a kerf equal 
to the thickness of the saw or its set. The angle of the saw may be 
varied by moving the taper collars in opposite directions to any desired 
width of kerf within the reach of the taper collars. 

The graduation marked on collars, enables the operator to repro- 
duce the same effect at any future time with same size saw. The saw 
and taper collars are held in place against a fast collar on arbor with 
a ball and socket joint collar, to present a flat surface to the binder 
nut irrespective of the angle the saw may stand to the axis of the 
arbor. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



83 



GROOVING SAWS. 



N 



^ 



A ^^^^ 



O 



L 



k 



These useful little tools are too well known to require special men 
tion. They are ground thinner at centre than at rim, so that little or 
no set is required or just sufficient to keep the extreme points of teeth 
perceptibly wider than body of tooth. We make them any gauge at 
edge or centre as may be wanted. In ordering grooving saws, state 
whether wanted straight or hollow ground, if the latter, give size of 
collar. 



CORK, LEATHER, PAPER OR CLOTH KNIVES. 



Our stock for these knives is made 
especialh^ for the purpose and is the 
finest quality of edge-tool steel. This 
with our new process of tempering and 
grinding and the highest class of work- 
manship, enables us to turn out knives 
that for general superiority stand un- 
equaled. 

In ordering knives give diameter, 
gauge, size of hole, whether to be 
beveled on both sides or only on one, and how deep bevel is to run. If 
knife is a large one and screws to plate or flange send flange to us or an 
accurate tracing of holes, stating whether one or both sides are to be 
beveled ; if only one side, state whether screw holes are to be counter- 
sunk or flat on beveled side. Circular and straight knives for cutting 
rubber, cork, etc., made to order. 




Cork Knife. 



84 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



CYLINDER OR BARREL SAWS. 



Stave Saw. 



Bilge Saw. 




We are prepared to furnish these saws of a superior quality, ground 
and tempered by our special process. They are made of the best cru- 
cible steel and will give satisfaction. Old Cylinder or Barrel Saws 
resteeled and repaired. 



COnPLETE BILGING STAVE MACHINE. 




For nail keg staves, 15" to 20" long. This machine is fitted with 
steel journals, steel carriage stops and spring in cairiage. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



85 



RE=FILINQ CYLINDER AND BILGE SAWS. 

The instructions and sketch beh)\v give a correct rule ft)r filing 
and keepnig this class of saws in proper order. While yV ^^ given as 
the base for depth of teeth, this is subject to variation to suit the aif- 
ferent conditions. 




To Obtain the Correct Depth of Teeth : See that all the 
points of old teeth are even, if not, raze off until they form an even 
edge. Chalk the surface of the saw to retain a pencil mark, on which 
scribe a line y,j'' from end of razed points, per dotted line ou sketch. 

Proper Pitch for Front op Teeth : Draw a line 6" length- 
wise with axis of saw ; from the end of this step off 4" parallel with 
edge of saw, then draw a line from this point to point of tooth and 
this will give the angle or pitch. 

It is only necessary to lay out one tooth in the manner suggested, 
after which a tin templet can be cut to correspond with same and the 
balance of the teeth marked out accordingly. 

To Shape the Teeth and Guelets a y^" Round File is gen- 
erally used, the balance of the tooth being finished with an ordinary 
Mill File, shaping the front and back of tooth as shown on sketch. 
Particular attention should be given to file the gullets round at bottom, 
for sharp, square corners will cause breakage. 

When dressing the teeth, file the cutting edge square with the face 
or front of tooth. The set should be sufficient to just clear the saw 
and extend no more than one-third the depth of tooth. A uniform set 
can be obtained by using a tin or metal templet and springing each 
tooth to same. 



86 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



SHINGLE SAWS. 



Left- Hand. 




Right-Hand. 



Q 



QO. COVS^*TCUS\iH\\ S\QC 



'^/ / ; / M 1 '■■^' 



^^ 



vv'\ 




Fig. 2 





When ordering Shingle Saws, give the fol- 
lowing directions plainly. Diameter in inches ; 
thickness or gauge, at centre ; thickness or gauge 
at rim; diameter of flange. Send a full size 
sketch or pattern of holes, and samples of screw 
by which to drill and countersink saw. If you 
have a flange, send it to have holes drilled in saw 
to fit it. If you wish us to furnish a new flange, 
send full and correct sketch of diameter, thick- 
ness, holes, etc. State whose make of machine 
the saw is to run upon, number of teeth, flat or 
countersunk side (right or left hand ) and mark 
^■1 *-*^^ countersunk side of sketch the direction in 

H which the teeth run. (See cut above). 

SCREWS FOR SHINGLE SAWS. 

Particular attention is called to the importance of using screws 
that are suitable to the thickne^^ of the saw ; we frequently receive 
screws as samples by which to drill and countersink, that have heads 
entirely too large for the thickness of saw, and which require the flange 
to be countersunk (as shown in Fig. 1), thereby reducing the length 
of thread in flange, making it impossible to bind the saw firmly to 
flange. 

Fig. 2 shows the correct size the screw heads should be, thus get- 
ting a good ])earing for the screw heads on countersink in saw and the 
full thickness of flange is retained for thread. 

In no case should the screw heads be deeper than thickness of saw. 
Thin saws require smaller screw heads than thick saws. 



r 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



87 



SET GAUGE FOR SHINGLE, VENEER, AND HEADING SAWS. 




ILLUSTRATION ONE-HALF ACTUAL SIZE. 



The above cut represents gauge for regulating amount of set put 
in shingle, heading and jointer saws. 

As shown, the gauge is a simple contrivance, having three set 
screws and two projecting arms, and is operated from flat side of saw. 

The amount of set required being known, it is an easy matter to 
adjust ; thus— First adjust gauge to flat side of saw by use of bottom 
screw and side arms, then turn upper screw on left hand side until it 
rests lightly on side of tooth near point, then reverse screw until half 
the amount of set wanted is shown between end of screw and tooth ; 
fasten in this position by the jam on screw, then adjust right side of 
gauge in same manner, and tool is ready for use. 



88 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



VENEERING SAWS IN SEGMENTS. 








y VVM QR \<:^ ' " 


^^\iWLR=>\iW. s\ooc;,- V' ,: 


Right^Hand. 



<^ 



Left=Hand. 

Wheu ordering segments, give gauge or thickness at butt and at 
tooth edge, depth of bevel, diameter of saw that segments are to form, 
number of segments in saw, depth of segments, number of teeth in each 
segment, sample of screw by which to drill and countersink, flat or 
countersunk side, and direction in which teeth run (see engraving). 

In ordering for a flange that has been drilled, send a sheet iron or 
tin templet, or a correct tracing showing holes and other particulars ; 
or one of the old segments, giving the depth they were originally. 




Left=Hand. Right=Hand. 

The attention of the manufacturers of chair or wheelwright lumber, 
barrels, etc., is respectfully called to concave saws, of which we are 
manufacturing large numbers. They are dished and tempered by an 
entirely new and patented process, and guaranteed to be of superior 
quality in every respect. To keep concave saws in order, set both sides 
of the teeth alike ; file the front of teeth square and bevel the back of 
each a trifle. Keep the same amount of rake on the fronts of all the 
teeth ; do not run a dull saw, and keep the gullets round. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



89 




These saws are 
ground to run with- 
out set ; especially 
adapted for smooth 
cutting, such as 
Cabinet and Cigar 
% box work. 
^ When ordering, 
^ give size of centre 
j^ hole, also diameter 
of collars on man- 
drel. 



'^'HV^?PWN(W^'^ 



CIRCULAR MITRE SAW WITH CLEANER TOOTH. 



jA\ 



^ 









^4-. 



L 



%/- 



jf;f.';/'X/;>5 



ASTSTEEIVV*^ JW/SB_RAK 



% 




'^^^Wl#^>'^ 












^ 






This style of saw 
can be made for 
either ripping or 
cross cvLtting. 
When made for rip- 
ping a greater num- 
ber of cleaner teeth 
are put in than for 
cross cutting. It 
will cut equally as 
smooth in either 
ripping or cross cut- 
ting. 



90 HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 

HACK SAWS. 
Circular Milling Saws, Metal Saws, Hot Saws and Friction Discs. 

In applying the word " Saws " most persons would presume it to 
be an implement for cutting lumber or wood, while such is the chief 
use to which they are put, they are, at the same time, used in nearly 
all forms for sawing metals under different conditions. 

The Hand Hacksaw is a narrow blade 6 to 14 inches in length, 
with fine teeth. For use, these blades are strained in an iron frame. 
The frames are made in different st3des, including the "Extension 
Frame," which can be adjusted to suit different lengths of blades, and 
are so arranged that the blade can easily be removed and another 
replaced in a short space of time. The steel in these saws is of the 
very best grade, tempered by an improved process insuring strength 
and hardness. For cutting the teeth and putting them in order intri- 
cate and expensive machinery has been built and by this method the 
work is done with gi-eater accuracy and at much less cost than would 
be possible if done by hand. The saws are now made so much cheaper 
than formerly and being better in quality and workmanship they have 
come into general use by workmen of all trades and are so inexpensive 
that when worn dull are replaced with new blades. 

The amount of work that can be done with one of these little 
tools is marvelous, though considerable depends upon the manner in 
which it is used. To cut steel that has not been properly annealed 
makes hard work for the saw ; too heavy a pressure or a sudden thrust 
into the work will be detrimental to the life of the saw. 

These saws are also made in large sizes for special purposes, such 
as making an occasional large cut, in which case the blades are made 
somewhat thicker and wider than ordinarily, the lengths running up to 
26 inches, and are fitted to frames similar to a Butcher Saw. See 
illustrations on page 153. 

Metal saws are also made in the form of the regular carpenters' 
handsaws, and also similar in shape to the Back or Tenon Saws. These 
are made of a special steel and temper, are ground thin towards the 
back and can be re-sharpened with a good file. The Tenon saws of 
this st3de are principally used in mitre-boxes in the manufacture of 
show cases, etc., while the hand metal saws are for purposes where 
other forms of hacksaws cannot conveniently be used. Large saws in 
the form of handsaws are also made and can be operated by two men 
the same as cross-cut saws, the handle for small end of saw is adjust- 
able and can be attached or detached at will. These are principally 
used in brass foundries for sawing the gates from large castings. 

Portable Hand Machines are now made and are supplied with a 
wider, much thicker and somewhat longer blade. They are used in 
railroad construction and repairs, the rail being clamped in the machine 
while the saw can be adjusted to cut either straight or diagonal. This 
is a great improvement over the hammer and chisel formerly used for 
this work, and while the machines are adapted for hand they are also 
arranged to work by power. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 01 



CIRCULAR SAWS OR DISCS FOR CUTTING HOT OR COLD 

IRON OR STEEL. 

For fast cuttin^^ of cold steel or iron, friction-discs, are used. For 
hot steel and iron, saws having teeth varying from 3 8 to % inches in 
space, are used, the angle of teeth being equally divided from a line 
drawn from points of teeth to centre of saw, and are run at a speed 
lower than friction-discs. These saws and discs are made of mild steel 
manufactured expre.s.sly for the purpose. 

To give the best results, these saws and discs must be run at a high 
and uniform rate of speed. Hot saws should be run at about the rate 
of twenty thousand feet per minute (rim motion). Discs for cutting 
cold iron or steel should be run about twenty-four thousand feet per 
minute (rim motion) and it is highly important that the mandrel and 
collars upon which they run should be amply heavy, large and true, 
and so secured in boxes to the frame work or housing to avoid all vibra- 
tion. The arbor should fit the centre hole of the saw neatly, this is 
necessary for good work. 

In cases where the motion of these saws is reduced from any cause, 
the feed should be reduced proportionately, or work should be sus- 
pended altogether until proper speed can be regained. The work in no 
case should be forced suddenly upon nor crowded on the saw. 

The flanging which takes place upon the rims of discs should be 
removed frequently and before it becomes ragged, or cracks in the plate 
will be the result. 

Hot iron saws should be kept sharp, otherwise they will jam in their 
work, and be liable to break. 

For slow motion or milling saws for cutting steel rails, beams etc. , 
the saw should run 45 ft. , rim motion, per minute with a feed of Yx inch 
per minute. This amount of feed is for a 28 inch saw with 200 teeth of 
about -j^g. pitch or space. While the rim speed of saw, i. e., 45 ft. per 
minute should be maintained for any diameter, the feed must be reduced 
to correspond to a less number of teeth; also for deep cuts the feed 
should be slowed down to prevent jamming of the chips in the gullet, 
it is best to have a wire brush rigged over the saw for the purpose of 
knocking the chips from between the teeth so they will not be carried 
around in the cut again. This brush need not have any motion, only 
such as it gets from coming in contact with the saw. For wrought iron 
the speed can be increased to 60 ft., rim motion, and feed to 1 inch per 
minute. There should always be two or more teeth in the cut at the 
same time. For rails and beams, y^ space is considered right in the 
solid saws. For the large saws, for special purposes, with inserted teeth, 
the space varies from 1 inch to 3^:^ inch. If the work be fed to the saw 
below^ the centre line the saw should run from the operator; or if the 
work is fed above the centre line the saw should run toward the opera- 
tor. This will prevent the work from being pulled in on the saw from 
any lost motion that may occur and prevent the teeth or saw from being 
broken. For Brass or soft metals, the speed can be increased to about 
five times that of iron saws. For metal tubing, fine teeth must be used; 
speed and feed in accordance wnth metals, as given above. 

In ordering any of these saws, the purpose for which they are to 
be used should be given. 



92 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



Cold Saw Cutting off riachine. 




The above is an illustration of No. 2 Machine for cutting bars 
round or square up to 5^" and beams 6" x 24". This machine carries 
a 24" saw, weighs about 7500 lbs., and is made in six sizes. 

Each machine is complete with one saw, cover plate, clamping 
device, saw grinding machine and counter shafts for machine and 
grinder if desired. 

This machine by means of a large milling cutter or saw will cut 
off any shape stock, perfectly square or at any angle to exact lengths. 

Illustrated pamphlets with description, prices, etc., sent on appli- 
cation. 



<+-! Oi 


To cut bars. 


■*-> 8 






<+-! 


o a 






si ^ 


ii ^ o ^ 


(L» . : 


Size 
machi 


Round 
or Square. 


Beams. 


Q ° 


Weig 
abou 


Diame 
of tig 

and lo 
pullej 


Speed 

count 

shaft 





2}4 


2>^xl0 


12 >^ 


2,500 


12 inches. 


350 


1 


4 


41^x16 


18^ 


4,500 


14 " 


300 


2 


5/2 


6x24 


24 


7,500 


20 " 


250 


3 


7 


32x 8 


30 


9,500 


20 " 


400 


4 


• »>^ 


12x38 


36 


13,000 


24 " 


450 


5 


12 


15x56 


48 


20,000 


26 " 


500 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



93 



•futs. 



r- • ■- * 




INSERTED TOOTH MILLING SAWS. 




.% 






4 



^A. 



v> 



^ 



^/ 



CAST STEEL Vt^ /warranted 

^ PATEHT GROUND 



<^; 



o 



o 



o 






i> 




n 



^.0 

c • L J7 

o ■ [If?' 
C ' fjp' 

%5 









^■, 



(y 



-a^^ 



,<\ 



% 



C:. 



The above cut represents Inserted Tooth Milling Saws, used for 
sawing heavy beams, girders, armor plates, etc. We makethese from 
18 to 84 inches in diameter, varying from fV to 1 inch in thickness. 



SAW MANDREL. | 




For saws and emery wheels to be used in the lathe, made of steel 
with hardened ends. 



94 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



^•\, 






^ 



MILLING SAW. SLITTING SAW. 

We make Milling saws and saws for cutting metal at either high 
or low rates of speed, of au}^ diameter up to sixty inches, and of an}^ 
thickness required. These saws are hardened by a new and improved 
process, and made of a quality of steel that exactly suits the purpose 
for which they are used. 



DISSTON'S METAL SAWING MACHINE. 




A .strong, well built machine. Can be operated either by hand or power. 
Will cut all shapes and sizes up to four inch round, and at any desired angle. 

The guide fsee arrow) keeps the blade straight, prevents chatter- 
tering, and its weight on saw will hold it down to work when starting 
the cut. To compensate for different thicknesses of blades the cap of 
guide should be packed with thin pieces of steel. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



95 



SUGGESTIONS an^ INSTRUCTIONS 



AS TO CARE AND MANAGEMENT OF 



BAND 




SAWS 



SINGLE and DOUBLE EDGE. 



96 



HENRY DISSTON & SONS' 



DISSTON'S NEW PROCESS STEEL. 





Figure 1. 



Figure 2. 



Of all the metallic alloys, steel is at once the most important and the most 
easily produced. Its malleability, ductility and plasticity when heated, rendering 
it easy to fashion to any 
reqi:ired shape. While its 
strength, hardness, elasticity 
and tenacity when cold, give 
it a superiority over all other 
metallic substances. But this 
highly useful substance, even 
in its most carefully made 
and most expensive quali- 
ties, was not without defects, 
and these defects were of the 
most serious character ; the 
more so as they generally de- 
fied detection in the produc- 
tion and manufacture of the steel itself, and developed only in the finished article, 
often when in use, frequently at the most inopportune moment, and always caus- 
ing seriouc inconvenience and loss to all concerned. These defects arise from what 
are called Blow-holes, Spongyness or Hone}-combing, all of which are formed in 
the interior of the original ingot at the time of casting, and from the nature of their 
position are generally undetectable. To overcome these defects and produce solid 
ingots has been the aim of every steel maker from the time of Tubal Cain to the 
present day. But all attempts had been equally unsviccessful luitil the introduction 
of the " Rich Alloys." By the addition of a small quantity of this alloy to 
the molten steel In a particular manner, known only to a few, if properly 
applied, the steel ingots are 
rendered at once sound and 
completely freed from Blow- 
holes, Spongyness and Hon- 
eycombing, thus freeing the 
steel from those great defects 
which had so long detracted 
from its usefulness and in- 
creased its cost. Not only are 
sound ingots produced by 
the " Disston New Process," 
but the steel itself is materi- 
ally benefitted thereby ; its 
strength, its tenacity and its 
durability being at the same time largely increased. 

We were among the first to avail ourselves of this process for the manufacture 
of steel for saws and files, and to this fact is largely due the success and celebrity 
of the " Disston " world-renowned tools. 

The accompanying illustrations Nos. 1 and 2 show the exterior and interior of 
a steel ingot produced by the ordinary method. Illustrations Nos. 3 and 4, exterior 
and interior of a steel ingot produced by Henry Disston & Sons' " New Process.' 
It will be seen that while the exterior of both ingots are apparently the same, the 
interior is so markedly different as to need no further comment. 




^'* ''i\i:''-m 

Figure -i. 




Figure i. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 97 



THE BAND SAW. 

The life of a band saw depends very largely on the way it is hand- 
led, pavticularh^vhen it is new and before it has been perfectly adapted 
to the wheels on which it is run. Many men expect a new saw to do 
more work than one that has been perfectly adapted and adjusted to 
the wheels and the alignment of the mill. This is a mistake, for there 
are peculiarities about every mill, and until a new saw is adjusted to 
the face of the wheels, their aligning or tilt, the speed and feed, the}- 
cannot be expected to give as good results as the older saw. There is 
a certain quality about a new band saw which we can best describe by 
calling surplus elasticity, and until this quality is brought down to its 
proper bearing by the judicious use of. the hammer and saw stretcher 
in connection with the first "runs" of the saw, it will not be at its 
best. The manufacturer is not in a position to subject the saws he 
sends out to the same strains they receive in the mills, hence a saw will 
change more on the first run than on any succeeding one, and should 
be gone over with extra care the first time it comes oif ; in fact, if the 
system of running a saw only half an hour on its first run, then taking 
it off and touching it up where\'er necessar^^ was more generally fol- 
lowed, there would be fewer cracked blades, and the life of all saws would 
be increased. All experienced filers and mill men know that excessive 
speed, too much tension, uneven tension, case-hardening or glazing from 
the emery wheel, gum adhering to face of wheels, crystalization from 
too heavy hammering, cuts on the surface of saw from sharp faced 
hammers, vibration of either machine or saw, sharp angles in the gul- 
lets, imperfectly adjusted guides, backs of saws too long or too short 
and excessively cross aligned to make them " track, " insufficient throat 
room and hook, crowding the saw against guard wheel, will cause it to 
crack. These are all well-known causes of breakage, yet notwithstand- 
ing the knowledge that all band saws are more or less subject to these 
conditions, too often the cause of fracture is attributed to the quality of 
the steel or over hardness. In justice to the saw manufacturer, due 
consideration should be given the fact, that the saw is onhw?;;r item, 
while each and ever}- one of the above named causes is a large factor 
in producing cracks in band saws. If a saw will stand swaging, and 
the swage can be side compressed without spalling, it is very good, 
evidence that the temper is not too high. 

We receive many letters' from Band Mill owners and operators ask- 
ing our advice as to the best manner to fit, tension and operate the saws 
to attain the best results in capacity and quality of the lumber made and 
at the same time get the most wear out of the saws. It is impossible to 
lay down a set of rules to fit all cases, or answer correctly any single 
one without knowing all the conditions under which the saws are run, 



98 HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 

but we will give a few of the most important points in reference to the 
care and management of the band saw which, if followed out carefully, 
will benefit those who have heretofore neglected any of these points. 

We will assume that you have a good modern mill, one from a first- 
class builder who has learned from experience to so proportion and dis- 
tril)ute the metal in his machine that the saw can be strained up to the 
proper point without springing or distorting any part of the machine 
and have an ample margin of strength to properly stand the additional 
strain put on it by vibration. Such a mill is the only one from which 
the highest results can reasonably be expected. 

Vibration is one of the greatest causes of bad results in the use of 
band saws and, knowing this, pjirticular attention should be given to 
the wheels and their shafts, the journals and boxes ; the wheels must be 
round and in perfect balance and the shafts must run free in their 
boxes with no lost motion. Sawyers occasionally complain that their 
saws which have been doing good work and giving satisfaction, com- 
mence to crack. This fact is not so surprising when we consider the 
immense tensile strain the saw is subjected to whilst running and the 
number of times in a day that the saw is bent and straightened in run- 
ning over the wheels, all of which, eventually, causes crystalizatiou of 
the steel and cracks the saw. 

None of the leading Band Mill builders are making as much crown 
to their wheels as they were a few years back, and some of them are 
making flat wheels, each style has its advocates and will give good 
results when properly handled, but as some of the best mill builders 
give one 64th of an inch crown in a 12 inch face wheel, it seems a 
question of education or preference with the operators. 

Common philosophy shows that the least amount of crown, the 
less tension necessary in the saws ; which in turn means less hammering 
and rolling, flatter saws, less kerf, and less tendency to crack. 

Perfectly uniform tension is the next important point, for if a saw 
has fast and loose spots in it, the tendency to crack is largely increased, 
the fast spot cracking from undue tensile strain and the loose spot from 
constant buckling of surplus metal. 

The tools required for hammering Band Saws will be a Cross Face 
Hammer, a round or Dog Head Hammer and a Twist Face Hammer, 
each weighing about 83^ pounds (see page 110, of complete out- 
fit). The Anvil should have a flat face and be perfectly true. Strike 
light fair blows, using care not to cut or mark the surface of the saw 
by the hammer, as cracks are apt to start from such marks, particularly 
when occurring near the edges. 

To experiment, cut a piece three feet long from a worn out or 
broken band saw, lay it on the anvil, taking your position at // in 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



99 



figure 1. Commencing at the end of the piece 
furthest from >ou place the straight-edge 
square across the blade and holding the blade 
with the left hand cause it to bend or curve as 
shown in figure 2. The places drawn to the 
straight-edge, as in figure 3, are "Fast" and 
those places that drop from the straight-edge 
are " Loose." The first object is to make the 
saw " Flat," or stiff as shown in figure 4, after 
having knocked down all the lumps. Ha\-ing 
located a ' ' fast ' ' place you will notice that it 
shows on both sides of the blade similar to the 
manner in which a lump shows when the saw 
is lying flat. Remove the ' ' fast ' ' by use of the 
round hammer, working on both sides of the 
blade, and trying frequently with the short 
straight-edge. Be careful at all times to keep 
the edges true. Now^ take out the "loose" by 
use of the same hammer until you have the 
piece stiff or flat throughout. Then proceed to 
locate and remove the ' ' twists ' ' still working 
from both sides of the blade and using the 
cross-faced hammer. 

Now proceed to open or tension the saw 
Fig. 1.— (Cut showing proper Until it sliows the required amount of drop 
n"t!i'-°^ Z r"^")" ' ''^^*^ "f from the straight-edge, figure 5, usually alwut 

1 able, Table for hammers and *> o ' o ' -' 

position of operator at work. a sixteenth of an iuch in a ten inch saw. 
The greatest opening should be done in the 
centre of the blade, decreasing gradually to within about an inch from 
the tooth edge and about one half inch from the Imck edge, var>nng a little 
according to the work to be performed. Be careful not to get the saw 
too open and examine from time to time with the small straight-edge. 
To insure the saw travelling on the wheels without any lateral motion, 
and to keep the vibration of slack side of saw down to lowest point, 
the tension nmst be perfectly uniform throughout the entire blade. 

The proper amount of tension varies according to the feed of the 
mill and crown of the wheel, but jq or ^V of an inch is about the average 
used, under no circumstances do we think it judicious from any point 
of view to put in so much tension that the saw will not lie flat from its 
own weight on the levelling table. The use of a tension gauge (see cut 
page 101 ) with one edge curved to the amount of tension wanted will be 
found of great ser\'ice in adjusting and putting tension in saws. Place 
the saw on anvil as in hammering, hold the tension gauge square across 

tnrf-e^ 




100 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS 



the blade at arms length as in figure 2, and if the tension has been pro- 
perly adjusted the saw will conform to the cur\'ed edge of the tension 
gauge from tooth edge to back. To reduce the amount of tension or 




Fig. 2. 

stiffen the blade, hammer gently along the edges of the saw (both sides) 
taking care not to strike nearer than a quarter of an inch from the 
edge or bottom of a tooth, figure 7. To increase the tension (or "open 




Fig. 3. 

up") hammer the centre or body of blade, testing frequently with the 
tension gauge, figure 8. 

The matter of feed is a very important item in the successful run- 



HAND-llOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



101 



ning and life of a Band Saw. The good sawyer is one who will get all 
the lumber out of a log there is in it, at a rate of speed up to the 
capacity of the mill and not strain the machine or saw in so doing. 




TENSION GAUGE. 

Made iu It-uglhs from six to twelve iuclies, with curvcil cdKe adapted to 
face of the wheels and the teiisiou it-<|iiired. 



Do not have sharji gullets to the teeth ; this concentrates the bend 
of the saw as it runs over the wheels too much at one point. Use a 
long round gullet, as large as practicable, with no sharp corners or 
abrupt angles. Teeth that are too long chatter in the cut and some 
times cause fractures by throwing undue strain on the blade at the root 
of the tooth. 

The swaging and fitting of the teeth is practically the same as in a 
full swaged gang saw, the swaging beiug side filed or shaped to a uni- 
form width with an under cut in order to leave the extreme point of 
tooth a trifle the widest, the full amount of swage when side filed 




Fig. 4. 



should never exceed No. 9 gauge in a 14 gauge saw and in hard timber 
can be run with less clearance ; it is advisable to run with as little swage 
as practicable for it decreases tensile strain on the saw as well as saving 
lumber in the kerf and requiring less power. The amount of hook 
ranges from four inches to six and one-half inches in a ten inch saw, 



102 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



being governed liy the timber to be sawn and the amount of feed carried ; 
when a properly hammered saw runs perfectly true on the wheels out of 
the cut, but "chases " back on the wheels as soon as it enters the log, 
increase the amount of hook until saw retains practically the same 
position on wheels both in and out of the cut. 

In sharpening use a medium soft emery wheel and do not crowd it 




Fig. 5. 

on its work as this would result in case-hardening the gullets. Cracks 
are liable to start from any of these case-hardened spots. 

Never let the back edge of saw come in contact with back guard 
wheel or any other hard surface, as case-hardening is bound to ensue 
from which cracks will surely result. Should the saw be accidentally 
forced against the guard and case-hardened, remove the glaze at once by 





Fig. 7. 



Fig. 8. 



holding a piece of soft emery wheel against back edge while saw is run- 
ning slowly. Do not take it for granted that the back edge of the saw 
has not been in contact with the guard wheel, try a file on the edge 
of the saw frequently as it has only to make one revolution with the 
back edge against the guard to do the case-hardening, and is done so 
quickly, that it often happens without the knowledge of the operator. 
It is essential to have toothed edge of saw tighter than any other 
part and to accomplish this without materially affecting the uniformity 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 103 ' 

of tension, roll the saw a little longer on the back edge. Let the 
increased length begin at the point in saw where greatest tension shows 
and let the back edge show about ^ of an inch rounding in every five 
feet then tilt upper wheel forward enough to make saw have as strong 
a pressure on wheel at back edge as at front; this will leave that part 
of saw between wheels with a tight toothed edge without subjecting it 
to that undue strain brought about by making tooth edge tightest by 
an all tilt movement The guides should be lined with either soft Babl)it 
metal or hard end wood and adjusted as closely to the side of saw as 
possible without heating the blade by friction against the metal or 
wood. The side of saw must be in perfect alignment with the F track 
and guides adjusted to saw, under no circumstances should the saw be 
deflected by guides, but have free, small and equal clearance on both 
sides. The tensile strain should be only sufficient to prevent slipping 
of saw on lower wheel, the highest capacity and best mills now rarely 
exceed a strain of 5000 lbs. , which is all sufficient if saw and mill is in 
proper condition, while no amount of strain will make an irregularly 
tensioned saw or a poorly aligned mill make good lumber, but will 
instead bring more strain on every part of the mill and cause the saw 
to crack much sooner. The majority of the large mills are now using 
the Roller or Stretching machine for putting in the tension. The 
desired effect can be attained in a shorter time and with less injury to 
the saw than if the tension be put in by hammer. It is necessary, how- 
ever, to use the hammer for finishing and regulating, after the use of 
the stretcher. 



r 



104 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



LEFT HAND 
BAND 5AW MILL. 




Cut No. 1. 



When ordering Band Saws, be particular to state whether Right 
or Left Hand Saws are desired; also give full particulars as to 
gauge, style of tooth, back edge, etc. If the saws are to be crown- 
ing on back we finish them gV" crowning to each 5 feet in length, 
unless otherwise instructed. 

We will supply, on application, an order blank giving details to be 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



105 



RIGHT HAND 
BAND SAW MILL. 




Cut No. U. 



specified, and if this is properly filled out it will enable us to make up 
the saws exactly as required. 

The above illustration, together with the one on preceding page, 
give views of two mills, by which the "hand " of saw can readily be 
determined, i. c, cut No. 1 shows design of a Left Hand Mill, the log- 
being on the left side of saw when standing facing the mill, whilst 
cut No. 2 shows Right Hand Mill, the log being on the right hand 
side of saw. 



lOG 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



HENRY DISSTON & SONS' METHOD OF BRAZING 
BAND SAWS. 




We attach herewith cut of brazing clamp f<M- the purpose of refer- 
ence ; this pattern we have in use at our factory. 

The parts to be joined should be beveled to a feather edge on 
opposite sides to a width of ^ inches to a \-ery nice fit ; the ends of 
l)evels should be perfectly square, and taper of bevel nu;st be uniform 
throughout. Too much attention cannot be given to this point, for if 
the bevel is not uniform and surface of same not perfectly even, a good 
joint cannot be made. 

Clean the beveled parts with slacked lime. We recommend 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 107 



slacked lime instead of muriatic acid, as a great deal of the acid of 
commerce is ven>' impure. Place the scarfed ends of saw on the braz- 
ing table with the back edges against the back of brazing clamp or 
whatever part sen-es as a straight edge, to insure having the edges of 
the saw perfectly parallel. Have the centre of lap directly over the 
centre of irons when in position. Arrange the main brazing clamps so 
that the saw when clamped will be in perfect contact with the l)ody of 
table, so that final pressure can be applied quickly without disarrang- 
ing the position of saw after the hot irons are in place. Cut a strip of 
Silver Solder the same size as lap and clean this in the same manner as 
parts to be joined, taking care to remove all traces of grease and dirt ; 
place this between the laps. Slip the irons, which should have a good 
true surface, in position, one under and one over the saw, centrally and 
squarely across the surface of laps. After making sure the adjustment 
is correct remove irons and heat them to a bright red in a moderate 
fire, using charcoal or coke. 

When the irons are at the proper heat scrape all the scale from the 
sides to be applied to the saw, replace them as originally adjusted and 
apply the pressure on the main clamps quickly, after which loosen the 
side clamps adjoining the braze to allow for expansion and to relieve 
the strain on bodj'- of saw. 

As the irons cool, tighten the main clamps from time to time. 
Allow them to remain on the saw until they become black, then remove 
them. This will leave sufficient temper in the saw to hold the tension 
when hammered and prevent that portion of the saw just brazed from 
becoming too hard. Be sure the irons have always a good true surface. 
After using a few times they should be dressed off, which is necessary 
to get an even pressure. 

The closer the scarfed ends fit, the less solder will remain in the 
joint and the better it will hold. In clamping down the irons, see that 
they are placed square across the saw. Use nothing but Silver Solder 
of the very best quality as furnished by Henry Disston & Sons, and 
see that both solder and scarfed edges are perfectly free and clean 
from grease. This is absolutely necessary to make a good joint. 
Do not remove the irons too quickly, nor attempt to cool off the 
blade with water, as this is apt to make it brittle. When the braze 
is cool enough to handle, the joint can be cleaned, straightened, 



108 HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 

dressed to thickness of balance of the blade and hammered and rolled 
to the same tension. 

To those desiring to use a flux, we recommend the following: — 
Cover the laps with a thin borax paste to make a good flux. The borax 
for making the paste should be burned in a pan over a slow fire and 
frecjuently stirred to allow all the gases to escape; after burning, pul- 
verize as fine as possible, mix with water, and apply a thin coat to sil- 
ver solder and parts to be joined just prior to placing the hot irons. 

By carefully following the above directions, you will be able to 
make a satisfactory braze. 



DIRECTIONS FOR JOINING SMALL BAND SAWS. 




V. 



SMALL BRAZING CLAJIP AND TONGS. 



The parts to be joined must be beveled to a nice fit. Secure the 
saw at both ends in clamps, as per cut. See that the edges are parallel, 
or a short and a long edge will be the result, which will cause the saw 
to run badly and to break on the short edge when strained. Put on 
the filed parts a thin coat of borax paste. Cut a piece of very thin sheet 
silver solder of the same size as joint to be made, which place between 
the lap. Take a pair of tongs having suitably sized jaws for the joint 



HANDnOOK FOR LUMIiERMEN. 100 



and lliat lui\c hL'cn heated to a l)ri_i;ht red, sulTiciently to melt tlie 
solder. vScrape all the scale ofF between the jaws with an old file ; hold 
the joint with the hot tongs until the solder has thoroughly melted; 
remove the hot tongs carefully and follow up with another pair heated 
to show a dull red, which will set the solder and prevent the joint from 
being chilled too suddenly. The joint can then be dressed to thickness 
of the saw blade. It would be as well to have a pair of cold tongs to 
clamp the hot jaws firmly to the joint, as the hot iron must fit nicely 
over the whole width of the saw. In joining, do not make the lap 
longer than is absolutely necessary. 



BREAKAGE OF SMALL BAND SAWS. 

Among the most frequent causes of breakage the following may 
be named : The use of inferior saws of unsuitable gauge for the work, 
pulleys being out of balance or too heavy, the use of improper tension 
an-angements, not slackening saw after use, thus preventing the free 
contraction of saw blades on cooling down after work, the framing of 
machine column being of too light a section or too high, thus causing 
excessive vibration, joint in saw not being of the same thickness as the 
rest of the blade, improper method of receiving the back thrust of saw, 
consequently case-hardening the back of saw blade and cracking same, 
using band saws with angular instead of rounded gullets at root of 
teeth, top pulley overrunning saw, working dull saws, feeding up work 
too quickly to the saw% allowing saw dust to collect on face of saw- 
wheel, thus causing it to become lumpy and uneven, stopping or start- 
ing a machine too suddenly, especially while using a light blade, will 
almost certainly snap a saw in two. 

Always endeavor to have a fwll knowledge of the working and 
condition of each saw in your charge and examine each blade carefully 
as it comes off the wheels. Close application in studying the condi- 
tions tinder which the saw w^orks, along with good judgment as to 
when it is properly fitted for its particular work, is 7chat is wanted i7i 
every filer who wishes his band saw to run successfully. 



110 HENRY DISS TON & SONS' ' 



LIST OF MACHINES TO MAKE COMPLETE 

OUTFIT FOR BAND SAW 

FILING ROOM. 



1 or 2 Automatic Sharpeners. 

1 Saw Stretcher. 

1 Scarfing Machine. 

1 Fitting-up Clamp. 

1 Set of Pulleys and Stands. 

1 Brazing Clamp. 

1 Re-toother and Shear. 

1 Forge for Heating Brazing Irons. 

1 Patch Machine. 

1 Anvil. 

1 Straight-edge 5 or <> feet long. 

1 Short Straight-edge. 

1 Tension Gauge. 

1 Back Gauge. 

2 Hammers — 1 Cross Pean, 1 Ball and Pean. 
1 Hand Swage. 

1 Swage Shaper. 
1 Levelling Block. 



We are prepared to furnish customers with an}- of the above tools 
and will be pleased to supply description and quote price on an3'thing 
required for the keeping and fitting of saws. Correspondence solicited. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



Ill 



Patent Automatic Power Swage 



FOR- 



BAND SAWS. 




This machine operates from the under side of the tooth without 
changing the hook and leaves the saw in perfect joint. The machine 
is adjustable to hook, shape or space of teeth, leaving them in proper 
shape for the shapening. The machine is very carefully constructed 
and of the best material, and we recommend it to au}^ one in need of a 
good power swage for Band saws. Prices and instructions for use on 
application. 



rz 



HENRY DISS TO iV of SONS' 



AUTOMATIC BAND SAW SHARPENER. 




The above cut and the one on the following page illustrate up-to- 
date Automatic Band Saw Sharpening Machines that will sharpen 
band saws from 8" to la" in width with any shape of teeth from 1}4 
to o inches from point to point. The heads can be set at any angle ; 
the feed fingers are adjustable as also the feed finger stops. These 
machines can be used for right and left hand saws, two back feed arms 
being furnished for the latter purpose, also Post Brackets for carrying 
the saw. 



HAXD-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



AUTOMATIC BAND SAW SHARPENER 



113 \ 




For large band saws. Cuts, descriptions and prices for banc 
re-saw sharpeners will be furnished on application. 



114 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



AUTOMATIC HAND BAND SAW SETTER. 




To obtain a true and uniform set the Automatic Band Saw Setters are unex- 
celled as every tooth is bound to be treated alike, and in sawing each tooth will 
perform its proportionate part of the cutting with the least possible strain on any 
part of the saw. With the saw properly adjusted to the above machine one revo- 
lution of the crank feeds and sets two teeth, one to the right, the other to the left. 
All the movements are automatic and rapid, the machine giving its blow in such a 
manner as to properly set the teeth, while the force of the blow can be instantly 
regulated by a thumbscrew, tluis permitting the setting of light and heavy blades. 
These Setters are adapted for saws with teeth spaced from ys^^ to ^'^, and a special 
machine is made for teeth spaced up to IX"- 

NARROW BAND SAW FILER 




In filing saws great skill is necessary to obtain teeth regular and even in pitch 
and shape, for with the cutting points out of line or bevel a saw cannot run straight 
or smooth. With a successful automatic filer the work can be done in less time 
and with greater accuracy than by hand, and if the saw is uniform in shape a 
simple light filing or setting from time to time is all that is required to keep it 
perfectly sharp and properly set. 

The aljove machine is built to run by power and will file 50 or more teeth per 
minute, using an ordinary 0^^ or 7^^ band saw file which can be adjusted so as to 
afford more or less hook, filing each tooth separately or alternately as desired. A 
small size is made for filing teeth spaces from ,'/' to %^^ and a larger size to take 
in^V'toj^f^^ 

In using automatic machines on saws previously filed by hand it is best to go 
over the saw several times with the machine until the teeth become regular, and 
care should be exercised in brazing to maintain uniform spacing as the machine 
will not correct uneven spacing. 



HAND- BOOK I- OR LUMBERMEN. 



115 



DISSTON ECCENTRIC BAND SAW SWAGES 




Made in two sizes. The No. 1 is adapted to saws from No. 12 to No. 16 gauge 
in thickness, the No. 2 will swage saws from No. 16 to No. 21 gauge. When order- 
ing give thickness of saws the swage is to be used on and send sketch of teeth. 

LIST OF PARTS. 




V. 



Order parts by number and state whether pieces are to be used on 
the No. 1 or No. 2 swage. 



r 



116 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



"^ 



Band 5aw Quide. 



An important and vital feature of a band saw machine is the Saw 
Guide. 

To insure even and easy running it is necessary that the blade 
should move with all possible freedom and the best guide is one that 
offers the least resistance to the motion of the blade. 




V. 



The following cut illustrates a guide calculated to prevent the 
friction at the back of the blade. 

The guard-wheel is set at an angle below the side guide pieces, 
and being fitted with ball bearings it revolves with the downward 
motion of the saw^ the instant the back of the blade is forced against 
it, thus preventing twisting, cramping and case-hardening of the saw. 

This guide is adapted to all widths of band saws up to two inches 
and is easily adjusted to any make of machine. 



HAND-nOOK I- OR LUMBERMEN. 



117 



Shapes and Spacing of Teeth Used 
in Band Saws. 



SPECIAL PATTERNS MADE TO ORDER. 



Band Re=Saw Teeth. 






Above illustrations FULL size. ORDER by LETTER on cut. 



118 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



BAND RE=SAW TEETH. 







Above illustrations FULL size. ORDER by LETTER on cut. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



BAND RE=SAW TEETH. 



119 



A 







Above illustrations FULL size. ORDER by LETTER on cut. 



120 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



LOG BAND SAW TEETH. 






2'/4 





Above ^lustrations FULL size. ORDER by NUMBER on cut. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 121 



LOG BAND SAW TEETH. 






Above illustrations FULL size. ORDER by NUMBER on cut. 



122 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



LOG BAND SAW TEETH 




HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



LOG BAND SAW TEETH. 



123 







Above illustrations FULL size. ORDER by NUMBER on cut. 



124 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



^ 



LOG BAND SAW TEETH. 







Above illustrations FULL size. ORDER by NUMBER on cut. 



r 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



125 



Construction 



of 



Saws 




and 



How to Keep Them in Order. 



\ 

126 HENRY DISSTON & SONS' 



The deiiiaiul for an article of instruction on saw filing havini,0)een 
<leni()nstrate(l to us not only by personal incjuiry and letter, but also by 
the return of fine (juality saws, pronounced defective through a lack of 
knowledge of how to keep them in order, or by the use of extensively 
atlveilised so-called saw sets and other tools,— which pull the saw 
blade apart or so distort it as to render it unfit for use — has led us to 
compile this book for gratuitous distribution for the enlightenment of 
the amateur and the improvement of the expert mechanic. 

We will endeavor to give, in the following pages, such practical 
information as to the proper methods of keeping saws in order and of 
the tools ^vith which to do so, that will overcome the above mentioned 
pit-falls to the proper working of the saw. We offer our large experi- 
ence and the reputation of uur goods for the efficiency of this treatise, 
which has been gleaned from the most scientific saw makers and most 
])ractical saw filers in the world. While we admit there are other 
methods of putting saws in order, we claim our modes to be the easiest 
and e(pially or more effective. 

We take occasion to thank our patrons for their appreciation of 
our ])roducts. The high standard (which is the basis of our constantly 
increasing business ) shall be maintained, and we trust thereby to retain 
tlieir good will and increase our trade in future. 

HKNRY DISSTON & SONS', Incorporated. 



V. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



127 



The followiiii; cuts are full size of the respective number of teeth 
and points per inch wliich they represent. Care should be taken when 
orderin*^ to specify whether teeth or points per inch are intended, for 
it will be noticed that in one inch space there is one tooth less than 
there are points. 

RIP SAWS. 




lli.S 



HJ^XK)' J)/SSTOA' of SOAS' 



The following cuts are full size of the respective number of teeth 
and points per inch which they represent. Care should be taken when 
ordering to specify whether teeth or points per inch are intended, for 
it will be noticed that in one inch space, there is one tooth less than 
there are points. 

CROSS=CUT SAWS. 



il21R0IWT.si 




^/^A A=U^^ A>K^jk>^Nj%J^x.^^,^^ .^ > P 



7 POINTS 




6 POINTS 



k.^.^.^..^! 




/^ ^ y^ /k, /k. 



/^ ^,y^^ ^ /^ ^yk, /k, /^ ^ /L. yi., ^ 
5 POINTS 




r 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 129 



PRINCIPLE OF CONSTRUCTION. 

The saw is eithei- reciprocating or continuous in action, the first 
being- a flat blade and practically straight edge, making a plane cut, as 
in hand, mill, jig and sash saws; the latter, either a circular or rotating 
disc, cutting in a plane at a right angle to its axis, a cylindrical or bar- 
rel shape with a convex edge cutting parallel to its axis, or a continu- 
ous ribi)ou or band running on two pulleys making a plain or curved 
cut with a straight edge parallel to their axis of rotation. Practically 
speaking, the teeth are a series of knives set on a circular or straight 
line, each tooth cutting out its proportion of wood and prevented from 
cutting more by the teeth on either side of it. Each tooth should cut 
the same amount and caiTy out the chip or dust, dropping it below the 
material being sawed. Different kinds of wood require teeth varying 
in nund^er, angle or pitch and style of filing. 

The perfection of a saw is one that cuts the fastest and smoothest 
with the least expenditure of power; to do this, it is evident that each 
tooth should be so constructed and dressed as to do an equal proportion 
of the work, for if any of the teeth are out of line or shape, they are 
not only useless themselves, but a disadvantage to the others. We 
find many good mechanics who frankly acknowledge that they never 
could file a saw satisfactorily ; the probable reason is that they never 
studied the principle of the action or working of the tool. There is no 
reason why any man of ordinary mechanical ability should not be able 
to file, and keep his saw in order, but like all trades, it requires 
practice and study of the sul)ject. 

The following illustrations and explanations will greatly assist in 
the selection of a saw and show the best methods of keeping it in 
proper working order. These should be carefully studied. 

A saw tooth has two functions — paring and scraping. A slitting 
or ripping saw for wood should have its cutting edge at about right 
angles to the fibre of the wood, severing it in one place, the throat of 
tooth wedging out the piece. 

In a cross-cut wood saw, the cutting edge also strikes the fibre at 
right angles to its length, but severs it on each side from the main body 
before dislodging it. 

RIP SAWS. 



Fig. 1. 

Fig. 1 is a four-point rip or slitting saw with the rake all in front, 
where the cutting duty is. This saw should be filed square across, 



130 



HENRY DISSTON & SONS' 



filing one-half the teeth from each side after setting, which will give a 
slight bevel to the cutting edge of tooth, as it should be for soft wood; 
for medium hard woods a liner toothed saw with five points to the inch 
should be used and dressed in the same manner; for the very hardest 
and toughest cross-grained woods a still finer toothed saw is required, 
with the teeth filed slightly beveling, as ripping cross-grained stuff par- 




takes a little of the nature of cross-cutting. In all cases where ripping 
is done, the thrust of the saw should be on an angle of about 45° to 
the material being cut, as shown in Fig. 2, this makes a shearing cut, 
an advantage that can be quickly demonstrated with an ordinary pocket 
knife cutting any piece of wood. For ripping thoroughly dry lumber, 
it will be found advantageous to use an extra thin back saw which will 
run without set. 

CROSS CUT HAND-SAWS. 



In cross-cutting, the fibre of the wood is severed fwur — on each 
side oi' the saw — the thrust dislodeinsf and carn-ing- the dust out. 



r 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



131 



Fig. 3 is a five-point peg tooth cross-cut saw with the rake on the 
side. For the same reason that the rip saw has the rake on front of 
tooth, the cross-cut has it on the side, as that is where the cutting duty- 
is. The bevel or fleam to teeth in Fig. 3 is about 45°, while there is no 



Fig. 3. 




pitch at all; the angle on each side being the same, forms the "peg 
tooth," which is best adapted to cutting soft, wet and fibrous woods. 
This style of tooth is principally used in Buck-saws. 

In all cases, the size and length of teeth depend largely upon the 
dut}^ required ; a long tooth has the demerit of being weak and liable 
to spring, but the merit of giving a greater clearance to the saw-dust. 
The throat space in front of each tooth must be large enough to contain 
the dust of that tooth from one stroke ; the greater the feed, the deeper 
the dust chamber required, or, more teeth. 

The first point to be observed in the selection of a saw is to see 
that it "hangs " right. Grasp it by the handle and hold it in position 
for working, to see if the handle fits the hand properly. These are points 
of great i nportance for comfort and utilitv. A handle should be sym- 
metrical, and the lines as perfect as any drawing. Many handles are 
made of green wood ; the}' soon shrink and become loose, the screws 
standing above the wood. We season our handle-wood three years 
before using. An unseasoned handle is liable to warp and throw the 
saw out of shape. The next thing in order is to try the blade by spring- 
ing it, seeing that it bends regularly and evenly from point to butt in 
proportion as the width and gauge of the saw varies. If the blade is 
too heavy in comparison to the teeth, the saw will never give satisfac- 
tion, because it will require more labor to use it ; the thinner 3'ou can 
get a stiff saw the better; it makes less kerf and takes less muscle to 
drive it This principle applies to the well-ground saw. There is less 
friction on a naiTow true saw than on a wide one ; you will get a 
smaller portion of blade, but 3'ou will save much unnecessary labor at 
a very little loss of the width. 

See that it is well set and sharpened and has a good crowning 
breast ; place it at a distance from you and get a proper light on it, by 
which you can see if there is any imperfection in grinding or hammer- 
ing. We should invariably make a cut before purchasing a saw, even if 
we had to carry a board to the hardware store. We set our saws on a 



r 



132 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



stake or small anvil with a hammer ; a highly tempered saw takes three 
or four blows, as it is apt to break b}^ attempting to set it with but one 
blow. This is a severe test, and no tooth ought to break afterwards 
in setting, nor will it, if the mechanic adopts the proper method. The 
saw that is easily filed and set is easily made dull. We have frequent 
complaints about hard saws, though they are not as hard as we would 
make them if we dared ; but we shall never be able to introduce a 
harder saw until the mechanic is educated to a more con'ect method of 
setting it. As a rule, saws are given more set than is necessary, and if 
more attention was paid to keeping points of teeth well sharpened, any 
well-made saw would run with very little set, and there would be fewer 
broken ones. The principal trouble is that too many try to get part 
of the set out of the body of the plate, whereas the whole of the set 
should be on the teeth. Setting below the root of the tooth distorts 
and strains the saw-plate, which may cause a full-tempered cast-steel 
blade to crack and eventually break at this spot ; and it is always an 
injury to the saw, even if it does not crack or break. 

The teeth of a hand-saw should be filed so true that, on holding it 
up to the eye and looking along its edge, it will show a central groove 
down which a fine needle will slide freely the entire length ; this groove 
must be angular in shape and equal on each side, or the saw is not filed 
properly and will not run true. 



Fig. 4. 



Fig. 5. 

nr 



Fig. (). 



Fig. 7. 



U 



y 



L 



Fig. 4 shows how the groove should appear on looking down the 
edge of the saw ; the action should be such that the bottom of kerf will 
present the appearance as shown in Fig. 5, and not like Fig. () ; the 
cutting action is as shown in Fig. 7, the cutting being done with the 
outside of tooth, the fibre of the wood is severed in the two places and 
the wood is crumbled out from point to point by the thrust of saw. 

The proper amount of bevel to give the teeth is very important, as 
is demonstrated by the above figures, for if too much be^-el is given, 
the points will score so deeply that the fibres severed from the main 
Ixxly will not crumble out as severed, but be removed by continued 
rasping, particularly in hard woods, as they require less be^•el, as well 
as pitch, than soft wood. 

Fig. 8 on next page, shows a six-point cross-cut saw filed with a 
medium amount of bevel on front or face of tooth, and none on the 
back. This tooth is used in buck-saws, on hard wood, and for general 
sawing of woods of varjnng degrees of tenacity. This style of dressing 
is the best, but a number of saws each having teeth suited to its par- 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



133 



Fig. 8. 




ticular work, will be found more advantageous than trying to make 
one saw serve for all kinds of hand saw work. 

We will now consider the cross-cut saw tooth, in regard to rake or 
pitch; this being one of the most important features, too much care 
cannot be taken to have the correct amount of pitch for the duty 
required. To illustrate this, Fig. 9 represents a board, across which we 
wish to make a deep mark or score wdth the point of a knife; suppose 





D 




we hold the knife nearly perpendicular as at B, it is evident it will push 
harder and will not cut as smoothly as if it was inclined forward as at 
A; it follows then that the cutting edge of a cross-cut saw should 
incline forward as at C, rather than stand perpendicular as at D. 

Too much hook or pitch, and too liea\w a set are very common 
faults, not only detrimental to good work but ruinous to the saw; the 



134 



HENRY DISSTON & SONS' 



first by having a large amount of pitch, the saw takes hold so keenly 
that frequently it ''/laugs iif suddenly in the thrust — the result, a 
kinked or broken blade; the second, by having too much set, the strain 
caused by the additional and unnecessary amount of set is out of pro- 
portion to the strength of the blade, and is broken in the same manner. 
The most general amount of pitch used is G0°, though this may be 
varied a little more or less to advantage, as occasion mav demand. 

The next point to be considered is the bevel, or fleam, of the point 
In Figs. 10, 11 and 12, the filer, as in all cases, files from the heel to 
the point, which is the only correct way. The file is supposed to be 



Fig. 10. 




horizontal to the perpendicular of the side of saw, and on an angle of 
about 4;")° longitudinally with the length, measuring from file line 
toward heel. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



135 



Fig. 10 is a five-and-a-half-point cross-cut saw showing the same 
amount of fleam front and back; this saw is best suited for work in soft 
wood, and where rapid, rather than fine work is required. A shows 
the position of the file, /> an exaggerated view of shape of point, and C 
the shape of point. 

Fig. 11 is a seven-point .saw for medium hard woods, illustrated 
in same manner as Fig. 10. This tooth has less fleam on the back, 
which gives a shorter bevel to point, as at C. 



Fig. 12. 




Fig. 12 is a still finer saw, having ten points to the inch. This 
saw has no fleam on back, the result being ver^^ noticeable at C and B. 
This style of point is for hard wood. 

It will be seen that the bevel on the front of teeth in Figs. 10, 11 
and 12 is the same, but the bevel of the point looking the length of 
saw is quite different, consequent upon the difference in the angles of 
the backs. 

Fig. 13. 




Fig. 13 is a representation of some of the saws we have seen; there 



136 HENRY DISS TON df SONS' 

are entirely too many such now in use, and we have no doubt their 
owners are shortening their hves in the use of them as well as those of 
the saws. To owners of such saws we say, take them to the factory 
and have them re toothed, or buy a new saw and take a fresh start, and 
steer clear of this style of filing. 

As we said in the preceding pages, and as will be seen by Figs. 
10, 11 and 12, the filing should be done from the heel of saw toward 
the point. Many practical saw filers contend this is wrong, that the 
filing should be done from point of saw toward the handle, but the only 
support they have for their theory is that they do away with the feather 
edge that the filing from the heel of saw puts on the cutting face of 
tooth. The feather edge is no objection, as the main part of it is 
removed when the teeth are side-dressed after filing, as we direct in 
our summary of saw filing on page 142. Against the correctness of 
filing from point to handle maj' be cited the following objections : 

Where a different angle of back is required (it being remembered 
that angle of face should be the same in nearly all cross-cut hand saws, 
and that angle of back governs angle of point), it will be found very 
difficult to obtain it without changing angle of face of tooth, and as the 
cutting duty is on the long side of face, any change is of course of 
great influence. 

Again, (though we think the above argument sufficient) to file 
from point of saw, it is necessary to file with the teeth bent toward the 
operator; this will cause the saw to vibrate or chatter, which not only 
renders good, clean, even filing impossible, but breaks the teeth off the 
file. 

In the preceding illustrations, we have only given the coarser saws 
that are in most general use, but the same principle of filing should be 
applied to the finer toothed saws regarding angles and pitch suitable 
for woods of different degrees of hardness, the only actual difference 
being that one saw has finer points, and they being finer, require a lit- 
tle more care and delicate touch in settina: and filins;. 



Fig. 14. 




Fig. 14 is a section of an eleven-point saw suitable for the fin(^r 
kinds of work on dr}-, soft woods, such as cutting mitres, dove-tailing, 
pattern work, etc. 

Fig. 15 shows a section of saw with same number of points as Fig. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



13^ 



Fig. 15. 




14, but filed same as Fig. 12. This saw is for finer work, same as Fij 
14 only on the medium hard woods. 



Fig. 16. 



\\\^,\N\' 




„X.?s/K444.'^^ 




Fig. 16 is a still finer saw for fine work on the very hardest woods 
having same dress as Fig. 14. 

Fig. 17. 




Fig. 17 is the finest toothed saw of its kind that is made for wood. 
AH the above mentioned saws in Figs. 14, 15, 16, and 17, are made 
especially hard and will not admit of setting, but being made thinner 
at the back, when properh' filed, will cut clean and sweet. Teeth such 
as shown in Fig. 17 are used principally on back saws and smooth cut- 
ting hand-saws. To maintain the original shape of these teeth use our 
cant safe back file. 

Fig. 18. 




Fig. 18 is a section of a priming saw which differs from a cross-cut 
hand-saw in being thicker, having a little more pitch to the teeth and 



138 HENRY DISSTON cr SOXS' 



being ground thinner on the back in proportion to its width. These, 
of course, are made for cross-cutting only, as there is not as gi'eat a 
variety in the A\-ork, nor as much diiference in the woods to be sawed 
as to degrees of hardness, being used only as a pruning saw on fruit and 
shade trees, which are always practicalh- green and comparatively soft. 
The illustration on page 137 shows number of points, pitch and 
be\-el most generally used and best adapted to such work. 



■Vwwwwwvivvv 



The "nib " near the end of a hand-saw has no practical use what- 
ever, it merely ser\'es to break the straight line of the back of blade 
and is an ornamentation onlv. 

COMPASS SAWS. 

These saws are for miscellaneous sawing. The best form of tooth 
for this purpose is the same as Fig. 18, excepting that it has a trifle 
less bevel. As the nature of the work partakes about as much of cross- 
cutting as of ripping, and as a cross-cut saw will rip better than a rip will 
cross-cut, it is apparent the shape of tooth should be between the two. 
These saws are all ground thinner at back but set same as any hand-saw. 

Scroll and web saws are ground, filed and set in the same manner, 
and should have pitch according to the work to be done. If more rip- 
ping than cross-cutting is done, as in large felloes, more pitch is given 
than in compass saws and vice versa , though these saws are almost univer- 
sally run with a rip-saw tooth and have ver^' little variation in the pitch. 

BUTCHER SAWS. 

These saws are for cutting bones. The pitch and number of points 
are about the same as a fine tooth hand-saw for medium hard wood, 
but filed straight through without fleam or bevel to teeth, with light, 
even set. same as in fine hand-saws. 

HACK SAWS. 

These saws are for cutting metal, such as brass, iron, or untem' 
tempered steel, and should have a little finer tooth than the average 
butcher saw. They are so hard that none but the best superfine 
files will sharpen them. Like the butcher saws, the filing must be 
straight through and no bevel. 

SETTING 5AWS. 

This is an important part of the work of keeping a saw in order 
and should always be done after the teeth are jointed and before filing. 
In all cases the set should be perfectly uniform, as the good working of 
the saw depends as much on this as on the filing. Whether the saw is 
fine or coarse, the depth of set should not go, at the most, lower than 
half the length of the tooth, as it is certain to spring the body of saw if 
not break the tooth out. Soft, wet woods require more set as well as 
coarser teeth than dry. hard woods. For fine work on dry woods, 
either hard or soft, it is best to have a saw that is ground so thin on 
the back that it requires no set ; such saws are made hard and will not 
stand setting, and an attempt to do so would surely break the teeth out. 



V. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



139 




THE STAR 5AW=SET. 

There are many saw-sets 
that ruin the saw ; the best 
form is one that involves the 
principle of the hammer and 
anvil ; with such a set the 
teeth would all be bent even- 
ly, and cannot be otherwise, 
though repeated blows be 
given. In the Star saw-set, 
represented in the following 
engraving, this principle is 
involved, and we guarantee 
this tool to do the work satis- 
factorily. 



Prominent among the advantages claimed for this set is that it can 
be operated by the foot by means of a treadle, thus leaving the hands 
free to guide the saw; or it can be used by striking on the top with a 
light mallet. 

A is the plunger, operated by a treadle attached to E, under the 
machine, a slight tap with the foot setting the tooth; B, the hammer or 
striking part; C the anvil; D, the movable gauge; F, the screw to 
regulate the amount of set. The striking part, and the anvil, or por- 
tion which receives the blow, are star-shaped, and siniilar in construc- 
tion. The points are all of different sizes, numbered from one to six, 
and are designed to set different sized teeth. It will strike a blow as 
sharp and effective as though by a hammer, and is the most useful and 
complete saw-set that has ever been offered. If the saw is hard, 
several blows should be given in setting it, raising the back of the saw 
from the guide-screw 7^ when the first blow is given, and gradually 
lowering it with each blow until the process is complete; thus many 
a good saw will be saved from utter ruin. A trial will suffice. Be sure 
to clean the saw teeth before setting. 



140 



HENRY DISSTON & SONS' 



MONARCH PATENT SAW=SET. 




We wish to call special attention to the particular merits of the Monarch Saw 
Set. Many Hand Saw sets are imperfect for the reason that the power is applied 
by the upper handle of the tool, making it necessary to change the position of the 
hand ever\- time the pressure is given to the tooth. To perfectly set a saw it is 
necessary' that the Saw-Set should be held in the same relative position on every 
tooth. In the Monarch, the power is applied by the lower lever, making it ver>- 
'easy to hold the saw-set in the proper position and obtain the necessary pressure 
by simply closing the fingers. You will notice the head of the set is made open 
and the work is plainly in view at all times, enabling the operator to quickly adjust 
the Saw-Set to the tooth. The gauge " B " for regulating the depth of set has a 
wider bearing than in most Saw-Sets, thus doing away with the tendency to incline 
the tool to one side or the other, which would give an uneven set to the teeth. 
The anvil is fitted with four beveled surfaces suitable for different sizes of teeth. 
The amount of set on each tooth is regulated by set screw " C " which is held firmly 
in place after adjustment by the small lock-nut or lever in the rear. This is of con- 
siderable importance, as the screw " C " cannot work loose diiring the operation of 
setting, which is the case with many other saw-sets, and insures an even amount 
of set throughout the entire length of blade. First adjust the anvil so that the 
bevel most suitable for the size tooth to be set is brought into position ; hang the 
Saw-Set on the saw so that guide " B " rests on the teeth ; adjust this guide for the 
depth of set to be given by use of set screw " A. " Use care not to go too deeply 
into the tooth as all of the set should be in the tooth itself. Taking too deep a 
hold is liable to distort the body of the blade, or break out the teeth. The top of 
plunger " D" should be in line with the top of the tooth to beset. Next adjust 
set screw " C " for amount of set required taking care not to put on any more set 
than is absolutely necessary. 

The Monarch Saw-Set is manufactured in two sizes ; the smaller size being 
suitable for Hand Saws, Back Saws, etc., and the larger size for Circular, Cross-cut 
Saws, etc. Each size is finished either Japanned or Polished. 



v_ 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 141 



Triumph Saw=Set. 

PATENTED Oct. 31, 1899. 

Specially Adapted for Hand Saws, Cross=Cut Saws, Circular Saws and 

all Small Saws. 




The idea embodied in this Saw-Set is one that will commend itself to every 
user of a saw-setting tool. The principal feature is the use of two plungers 
operated by the two levers or handles ; pressure on the lower lever forcing plunger 
" D " against the body of the saw, thus holding it rigidly in position and prevent- 
ing slipping, whilst a continuation of the pressure on the upper lever operates 
plunger " C " in setting the tooth. 

In action it is easy and powerful, and while it will perfectly set wide and heavy 
saws, it is also particularly adapted for narrow blades, such as web saws, narrow 
band saws, etc. If the gauge "B" is properly adjusted, the result will be a 
uniformity of set that cannot be obtained by any other hand set. 

Another important point is the head of the Set is made open, enabling the 
operator to quickly adjust the Saw-Set to the tooth, the work being in plain view 
at all times. The gauge "B," for regulating depth of set, has a wider bearing 
than in most saw-sets, thus doing away with the tendency to incline the tool to 
one side or the other, which would give an uneven set to the teeth. The anvil is 
fitted with four beveled surfaces, suitable for different sizes of teeth. 

IN OPERATING first adjust the anvil so that the bevel most suitable for the 
size tooth to be set is brought into position ; hang the Saw-Set on the saw so that 
the gauge "B" rests on the teeth; adjust this gauge for the depth of set to be 
given, by the use of set-screw "A." Use care not to go too deeplj'into the tooth, 
as all of the set should be in the tooth itself. Taking too deep a hold is liable to 
distort the body of the blade or break out the teeth. The top of plunger " C " 
should be in line with the top of tooth to be set. 

We claim this to be the best Hand Set ever put on the market, and a trial will 
convince anyone of its superior merits. If the instructions as to adjustment are 
are carried out the results will be entirely satisfactorj- to the operator. 

The Triumph Saw=Set is manufactured in three sizes, the smaller size being 
suitable for Hand Saws, Back Saws, Web Saws, narrow Band Saws, etc. ; the 
medium size for small Circular Saws, etc. , and the large size for Cross-cut Saws, 
Circular Saws, etc. 

Made only in POIvISHED FINISH 



142 



HENRY DISSTON & SONS' 



DISSTON'S SAW FILING GUIDE. 

Especially Designed to Assist Those Not Skilled in the Art of Saw 
Filing to File a Saw Correctly. 




This Cut shows a saw and clamp with attachment in proper posi- 
tion for filing the fii-st side. There are three marks on one of the hubs 
of the swivel attachment, and one mark on the other. One of the three 
marks show when it is in position for firet side and the other designates 
when it is in position for filing the other side. The third, or centre 
mark, sho^^-s when it is in position for filing Rip Saws. To obtain the 
correct position loosen the wing nut and move the guide around to the 
point desired; after tightening wing nut, loosen screw in file handle 
until file gives the shape tooth wanted. 

A good way is to select a tooth of correct shape and let file down 
into it, tighten set screw in handle, then file a tooth to see if the shape 
suits. If not, turn the file a little to the right or left and \xx another 
tooth until tlie proper shape is obtained. Then file eveiy other tooth. 
When one side is filed, reverse saw and attachment and file the other 
teeth. For Rip Saws, place the file at right angles with the saw, and 
file every tooth. Always keep the file as nearly horizontal as possible. 

This guide is sold only attached to oiir No. 3 clamp and price 
includes Clamp, Filing Guide, File and Handle. 

Care should be taken in filing a saw to keep the teeth of luiifonn 
size — not one large and one small, one up and one down. Unless your 
teeth are regular, your set can never be regular. When the teeth of a 
saw become irregular in size, it is useless to attempt to regulate them 
without filing them dowai until all the teeth are of equal height. Then 
proceed to regulate the size by filing straight through. We know from 
experience that not one man in a thousand, be he ever so practical and 
proficient, can regulate the teeth of a saw without firet filing down 
and then filing straight through. After the saw is properly set and 
sharpened, lay it flat on a true board, rub over the points of the teeth 
on the side with a smooth or partly worn flat file, which will regulate 
the set and insure smooth cutting, making the filing last longer. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



143 



After this operation, should the saw not run tnie, take another 
cut with the file over the side toward which it leads. A fast cutting 
cross-cut saw should have deep teeth. To make them deep they must 
be filed on an angle, to do this to advantage the clamp (see engraving) 
should be used and tlius a deep gullet tooth can be filed as readily as a 
S'piare bottom tooth. 



LARGE CROSS=CUT SAWS. 



"^^nn^WVWVWW, 



/^AT'Ar/"^ 




,^/A/v^W'r/- 




Fig. 10 represents a log of wood showing ends of grain which 
consist of more or less minute fibres or threads which constitute the 
tenacity of the wood. Our object with this saw is to sever the fibres 
or threads in the same manner as showTi in cross-cut hand-saws. Figs. 
3, 8, 10, 11 and 12, the only difference being that these large saws are 
constructed to cut equally well on either stroke, and that many of them 
have cleaner or drag teeth to carry out the dust. 

The same general rviles for filing and setting cross-cut hand-saws 
apply to these saws, excepting that the angle of tooth is same on each 
side ; the shape and space of teeth and different amounts of fleam, of 
course depends, as in other saws, largely upon the work to be per- 
formed. 



Fig. 20. 




Fig. 20 represents the plain cross-cut tootli which is used in any 
and all kinds of wood to equal advantage, when teeth are spaced, set 



144 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



and filed in accordance with instructions given in the preceding pages 
in relation to proper space, pitch and bevel. 



Fig. 21. 




Fig. 21 represents a .section of our improved Tuttle tooth-saw; the 
cleaner tooth must be filed square and about one thirty-second of an 
inch shorter than the cutting tooth. (See gauges for regulating clean- 
ing teeth pages 57 and 64). 



Fig. 22. 




V. 



Fig. 22 is a .section of our Lumberman saw, showing the style of 
file that should be used to preserve the original shape of tooth. The 
style of setting and filing this saw is the same as the ordinary cross-cut 
hand-saw, each alternate tooth set and filed from reverse sides. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



345 



^ 



Fig. 23. 



»m«s^^m«ss;mm<5m^5ssm^^^»^^ii,^^i^«ji;?? 




Fig-. 23 represents file for keeping teeth of our Great American 
cross-cut saw in the same shape in which they leave our works. 



Fig. 24. 



Fig. 25. 





Fig. 24 shows the manner of filing the long edge of the end tooth. 
Fig. 25 shows the manner of filing the short or inside edge of the 
end tooth. 



Fig. 26. 




I 



Fig. 26 shows the section of the file in the gullet of the saw. 

This file, though made expressly for our Great American cross-cut 
saw, will be found equally serviceable in fihng the 'lumberman," 
"Climax," and other cross-cut saws. 

The Great American tooth has been subjected to the most severe 
test, and is the best for general use ever offered to the public. These 
saws are ground extra thin back, which enables them to run with less 
set and more ease. 



146 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 




We manufacture a 
full line of the various 
kinds and sizes of Files. 
Special patterns made to order 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



147 



Disston piles. 



Of all tools known there are none used for so many purposes and 
of so many styles and kinds as files. There are several hundred kinds 
of regular files and several thousands of regular and special combined, 
all of which are designated by a name according to the length, shape 
and grade of the cut ; besides the hundreds of special names for the 
purposes for which they were made and used. All regular files of the 
different lengths and shapes are graded into three regular or usual 
sizes of teeth known as Bastard Cut, Second Cut and Smooth Cut. We 
ha^'e often been asked the meaning of the name ' ' Bastard ' ' as applied 
to the cut of a file. The name " Bastard " as applied to the cut of a 
file comes from the days when files were entirely made by hand and the 
name is supposed to have been given to a ' 'cut" between what was termed 
a " rough cut " and the finer grades of cutting and the file became a 
standard, taking the place of rough or coarse cuts and has been known 
since then as the " Bastard Cut." The same is the case in the names 
of " Flat" Bastard and " Hand" Bastard files, while both are the same 
as to cut, they vary a little in shape, and both are often used for the 
same purpose. We show here full sectional sizes and shapes of the file 
steel of which most of the regular files are made. As there is consider- 
able detail in the operations and processes of making a file which would 
take much space to describe and might not interest the reader or user 
of files, we will only say that the principal and necessary conditions of 
a good file are tough steel of high grade, sharp and well formed teeth, 
thorough hardening and careful inspection at every stage of the work. 





I2IN. 




MILL=SAW. 



FLAT. 



148 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



j^BB^ 



D 



^P ^H ^ik 

^p m ^ 

j^^^^ ^IP HI ^^^ 





HALF=ROUND. 



ROUND. SQUARE. 3=SQUARE. 





SHOE RASPS. 



16 IN 



HORSE RASPS. 



MACHINE MADE VERSUS HAND MADE FILES. 

Some years ago there was much doubt, argument and speculation 
as to the relative quality of machine made and hand made files which 
now, however, has passed away in favor of the machine made files for 
we can and do make finer files with machinery than can possibly be 
made by hand ; we make a file for special use in which the teeth can 
hardly be seen with the naked eye, there being 150 teeth to the inch. 
There are some files yet cut by hand and people often wonder how a 
file cutter can space the different grades of teeth so regularly with a 
hammer and chisel guided only by the eye. The fact is a hand cutter 
of files is not guided by sight near so much as by the feel with the 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



149 



chisel and the weight of the haininer. A good hand file cutter, blind- 
folded can cut one file nearly like another. We give herewith a few 
illustrations showing the different "cuts " in general use. These are 
engraved from files 12 inches long. If longer than 1 2 inches the "cuts 
will be coarser ; if shorter, they will be finer m proportion. 

SINGLE CUT. 




BASTARD. 




SECOND CUT. 
DOUBLE CUT. 




SMOOTH. 




BASTARD. 




SECOND CUT. 
RASP CUT. 




SMOOTH. 




HORSE. 



iiiMiinnM 

t!i.i»<.'l. ■»uiiw/«,;J,it:i''bllli 

li'iiiittiiyuiiiifMiiiibkiiiiiiiiii^ 

BASTARD. 



SECOND CUT. 



We desire to call particular attention to our method of sharpening 
the teeth of files after hardening. New Saw Files sharpened by this 
process will not only do more work, but will have a finer and sharper 
cutting edge and file a harder saw than the ordinary file. 

Every person using files should have a file brush and card to keep 
the files free from filings. To obtain good files select the brands of the 
maker who has the best means of testing the quality of their own make 
which is strictly the case with the DISSTON brand. 



150 HENKV DISS TON & SONS' 



HOW TO ORDER FILES. 

To aid the purchaser in properly describing the different files 
wanted we will endeavor to define a few of the most used terms. The 
first point for consideration is the Length. The length of a file is 
measured from the /nr/ (or where the tang begins ) to the poni for oppo- 
site end. Next determine the shape or kind of file wanted, for instance, 
Flat, Half Round, Mill, Square, Round, etc. The regular standard 
shapes are often modified to suit some special work. 

Many of the shapes now accepted by the trade as regular stock 
goods were originated and first made by us, such as Great American 
Cross-cut Saw Files, Chisel Point Files for Inserted Tooth Circular saws, 
Acme Files with safe back for filing Hand-saws, etc. 

The word "O^/" has reference not only to the kind or character 
of teeth in the file, but also to the degree of coarseness or fineness of 
teeth. The Cut of files is divided with respect to character of teeth 
into Single Cut, Double Cut and Rasp Cut ; and with respect to coarse- 
ness of cut into Bastard, Second Cut and Smooth. In addition to these 
latter there are a few files made coarser than Bastard and kno\\Ti as 
Rough and coarse; also a few finer than Smooth, known as Dead 
Smooth. 

The Single Cut File has one unbroken coarse of teeth or chisel 
cuts across its surface, parallel to each other but at an oblique angle to 
the length of the file. This Cut is used on all Mill Files, Taper Saw 
Files, etc. 

The Double Cut F'ile has two courses of teeth or chisel cuts cross- 
ing each other, one course being finer than the other. Double Cut is 
used on all Machinists' F'iles, such as Flat, Hand, Square, Round. 
Half Round, etc. 

Rasp Cut differs from both the above in the respect that the teeth 
are not placed in parallel rows across the file, but each tooth is put in 
separate by a single pointed tool or punch. 

Superfine F'^iles are made in various shapes and sizes, with extremely 
fine teeth, graded from No. 00 (the coarsest) to No. 8 (the finest). 
They are used principally for fine tool making and work on fine 
machiner}', where close, smooth filing is necessary. 

Every file stamped DISSTON is warranted as perfect as a file can 
be made. 

We manufacture in our own steel works ever}- pound of steel that 
goes into the Disston Files and guarantee to use in these goods nothing 
but Crucilile Cast Steel. W^e are the only File INIanufacturers in the 
Ignited States making the steel from which their files are produced. 

Constant care as to the quality of material, shape, teeth, hardening, 
etc., has enabled us to produce a file that for conectness of pattern and 
wearing qualities cannot be excelled. Each file is carefully inspected 
and thoroughly proved before leaving the factor^^ 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



151 



MACHINE KNIVES. 

T() produce good knives there are three important requisites : — 
(lOod steel, good temper, and good workmanship. The " Diss ton " 
kni\-es ha\'e attained their enx'iable reputation through careful and con- 
stant attention to these three points. 

All our steel is made especially for the purpose intended, and of a 
superior quality ; the welding of steel face to back in the " Disston " 
Kni\-es insures the strongest union possible, see illustration ; the 




temper cannot be excelled for uniformity and toughness, and our work- 
manship is the best, skilled labor can produce. 

We are prepared to furnish knives of any size or kind for cutting 
wood, paper and metal, including Planer, Chipper, Hog, Moulding, 
vSpoke, Stave, Stave Jointer, Mitre, Paper Trimming, Veneer and Bob- 
bin Knives, Shear and Stop Cutter Blades, Moulding Cutter Blanks, etc. 

In ordering Planer and similar knives with slots, place sample 
knife face down on a piece of paper and mark around to show length, 
position and size of slots, state width and thickness, number of knives 
wanted and miniber in a set ; also state temper required, whether high 
to grind only ; medium to file slowly ; soft to file easily. 

All Planing Machine Knives will be made with square backs, 
unless otherwise ordered. 

Orders for Moulding Knives should be accompanied with sample 
piece of moulding or an outline drawing of shape of moulding desired, 
or ordered by pattern number as shown in National Moulding Book, 
list adopted April 15th, 1896, by Sash, Door and Blind Manufacturers' 
Association ; also give width of C3dinder head and size of bolt used. 

We are plea.sed to furnish information at all times regarding knives, 
also diagram sheets for marking out patterns of knives. Correspond- 
ence solicited. 



152 



HENRY DISS TON cr' SONS' 




COPE CUTTERS 




r 




SOLID MILLED MATCHER BITS 



SPOKE KNIVES 




MOULDING KNIVES 



r 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



153 



KEYSTONE REVERSIBLE HACK SAW FRAME. 

Finished either Japanned or Polished with Hard Wood Handle. 

Oval Back. 




Flat Back, No. i. 




DISSTON'S ADJUSTABLE HACK SAW FRAME, No. 4. 

Suitable for Saws from 8 to 12 inches. 
Oval Back. 




DISSTON'S ADJUSTABLE HACK SAW FRAME, No. 5. 

Suitable for Saws from 8 to 12 inches. 
Flat Back. 



V. 




154 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



HACK SAW BLADES. 



The Keystone Hack-saw blades are hardened throughout and ha\-e 
the proper temper for the work required of them ; the teeth are of 
correct shape for cutting metal, and will do more work and wear longer 
than any other similar class of hack-saws on the market. 

The regular stock blades are made }^" wide, 10 points to the inch ; 
for special work we furnish blades with 22 or 20 points to the inch, 
while for cutting bic3'Cle tubing we recommend the Ke3^stone Ijlade 
with 35 points to the inch. 

Flexible Hack-saw Blades are hardened only on the teeth and are 
furnished in regular lengths, also in coils of such lengths as used on 
band sawing machines. 

Machine Hack-saw Blades are specially designed for use in Cut- 
ting-off or Power INIachines and for heav}' work. 

The Disston brand of Hack-saw Blades are made of special 
steel, are hollow ground to run without set and are tempered so 
they can be re-sharpened with a good fine file. 



RAIL HACK SAW. 




This saw is used for cutting off large Beams, Girders, etc. 
a valuable tool for contractors and structural iron workers. 



and is 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



155 



SPIRIT LEVELS, SCREW DRIVERS, TRY SQUARES, BEVELS, 

MARKING GAUGES, MACHINISTS RULES, 

SQUARES, ETC. 




No. 16V' PLUMB AND LEVEL 




A recent iinproveinent in this level consists of an extension to 
the sides of top plate, making a handhold or grip for lifting the level. 



TELEGRAPH SCREWDRIVERS 




No. 1 TRY SQUARE 




We niannfactnre a full line of these 
goods in all the correct patterns and of 
the very best qnality. 



156 



HENRY DISS TON <Sf SONS' 



No. 3 BEVEL 





Iron handle, flush screw, parallel 
edges, steel blade, hardened and tem- 
pered. 



No. SVs TRY SQUARE 




Iron handle, steel blade, hardened and tempered, 
gradual^ed. Square inside and out. 



No. 93 GAUGE 




HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 157 

USEFUL INFORMATION. 

To find circumference of a circle multiply diameter by 3.1416. 

To find diameter of a circle multiply circumference by .31831. 

To find area of a circle multiply square of diameter by .7854. 

To find surface of a ball multiply square of diameter by 3.1416. 

To find side of an equal square multiply diameter by .8862. 

To find cubic inches in a ball multiply cube of diameter by .5236. 

To ascertain heating surface in tubular boilers multiply 73 the 
circumference of boiler by length of boiler in inches and add to it the 
area of all the tubes. 

One-sixth of tensile strength of plate multiplied by thickness of 
plate and divided by one-half the diameter of boiler gives safe working 
pressure for tubular boilers. For marine boilers add 20 per cent, for 
drilled holes. 

Steam rising from water at its boiling point (212 degrees) has a 
pressure equal to the atmosphere (14.7 lbs. to the square inch). 

To find the horse-power of Engines, multiply the area of piston by 
the average steam pressure. Multiply this product by the travel of 
piston in feet per minute, divide this product by 33,000 and the quotient 
will be the horse-power. 

Note. As there is always a very appreciable difference between 
the pressure of steam in boiler and on piston we advocate figuring the 
steam pressure at just one-half the average amount carried on boilers. 
The result will then be nearer the actual power. 

HYDRAULICS. 

A cubic foot of water contains 7>^ gallons, or 1,728 cubic inches, 
and weighs 62^ pounds. 

A gallon of water contains 231 cubic inches, and weighs 8)4 pound.'i 
(U. S. standard). 

The friction of water in pipes is as the square of the velocity. 

The capacity of pipes is as the square of their diameters; thus 
doubling the diameter of a pipe increases the capacit}- four times. 

The height of a column of fresh water, equal to a pressure of one 
pound per .square inch, is 2.31 feet. (In usual computations, this is 
taken as two feet, thus allowing for ordinary friction). 

To find the area of a piston, square the diameter and multiply by 
.7854, 



158 HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 

Each nominal horse-power of boilers requires 7}4 gallons or one 
cubic foot of water per hour. 

To compute the horse-power necessary to elevate water to a given 
height, multiply the total weight of column of water in pounds by the 
velocity per minute in feet, and divide the product by 33,000. (An 
allowance of 25 per cent, should be added for friction, etc.). 

To compute the capacity of pumping engines, nniltiply the area of 
the water piston, in inches, by the distance it travels, in inches, in a 
given time. The product divided by 231 gives number of gallons in 
time named. 

To find the capacity of a cylinder in gallons, multiply the area, in 
inches, by the length of stroke, in inches, which will give the total 
number of cubic inches; divide this product by 231 (which is the 
cubical contents of a gallon in inches), and quotient is capacity in 
gallons. 

CARE OF BOILERS. 

The following rules are compiled from those issued by various 
Boiler Insurance Companies in this country and Europe, supplemented 
by our own experience. They are applicable to all boilers, except as 
otherwise noted. 



ATTENTION NECESSARY TO SECURE SAFETY. 

1. Safety Valves. — Great care .should be exercised to see that 
these valves are ample in size and in working order. Overloading or 
neglect frequently lead to the most disastrous results. Safety valves 
should be tried at least once every day to see that the}' will act freeh'. 

2. Pressure Gauge. — The steam gauge should stand at zero 
when the pressure is off, and it should show same pressure as the safety 
valve when that is blowing off. If not, then one is wrong, and the 
gauge should be tested by one known to be correct. 

3. Water Level. — The first duty of an engineer before start- 
ing, or at the beginning of his watch, is to .see that the water is at the 
proper height. Do not rely on glass gauges, floats or water alarms, 
but tr}' the gauge cocks. If they do not agree with water gauge, learn 
the cau.se and correct it. 



V. 



4. Gauge Cocks and Water Gauges mast be kept clean. 
Water gauge should be blown out frequently, and the glasses and pass- 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



~::\ 



V. 



ages to gauges kept clean. The Manchester, Eng., Boiler Association 
attributes more accidents to inattention to water gauges, than to all 
other causes put together. 

5. Feed Pump or Injector. — These should be kept in perfect 
order, and be of ample size. No make of pump can be expected to be 
continuously reliable without regular and careful attention, It is 
always safe to have two means of feeding a boiler. Check valves and 
.self-acting feed valves should be frequently examined and cleaned. 
Satisfy yourself frequently that the valve is acting when the feed pump 
is at work. 

6. Low Water. — In case of low water, immediately cover the 
fire with ashes, (wet if possible) or any earth that may be at hand. If 
nothing else is handy use fresh coal or saw dust. Draw fire as soon as 
it can be done without increasing the heat. Neither turn on the feed, 
start or stop engine, or lift safety valve until fires are out, and the 
boiler cooled down. 

7. Blisters and Cracks. — These are liable to occur in the best 
plate iron. When the first indication appears there must be no delay 
in having it carefully examined and properl}^ cared for. 

Fusible Plugs, when used must be examined when the boiler is 
cleaned, and carefully scraped on both the water and firesides, or they 
are liable not to act. 



ATTENTION NECESSARY TO SECURE ECONOMY. 

8. Cleaning. — All heating surfaces must be kept clean, outside 
and in, or there will be a serious waste of fuel. The frequency of clean- 
ing will depend on the nature of fuel and water. As a rule, never allow 
over y^g inch scale or soot to collect on surfaces between cleanings. 
Hand-holes should be frequently removed and surfaces examined, par- 
ticularly in case of new boiler, until proper intervals have been estab- 
lished by experience. 

9. Hot Feed Water. — Cold water should never be fed into any 
boiler when it can be avoided, but when necessary it should be caused 
to mix with the heated water before coming in contact with any portion 
of the boiler. 

10. Foaming. — When foaming occurs in a boiler, checking the 
outflow of steam will usually stop it. If caused by dirty waters, blow- 
ing down and pumping up will generally cure it. In case of violent 
foaming, check the draft and fires. 



160 HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



I. 



11. Air Leaks. — Be sure that all openings for admission of air 
to boiler or flues except through the fire are carefully stopped. This 
is frequently an unsuspected cause of serious waste. 

12. Blowing Off. — If the feed-water is muddy or salt, blow off 
a portion frequently, according to condition of water. Empty the boiler 
every week or two, and fill up afresh. When surface blow-cocks are 
used, they should be often opened for a few minutes at a time. Make 
sure no water is escaping from the blow-off cock when it is supposed 
to be closed. Blow-off cocks and check-valves should be examined 
every time the boiler is cleaned. 



ATTENTION NECESSARY TO SECURE DURABILITY. 

13. Leaks. — When leaks are discovered, they should be repaired 
as soon as possible. 

14. Blowing Off. — Never empty the boiler while brick-work is 
hot. 

15. Filling Up. — Never pump cold water into a hot boiler. 
Many times leaks, and in shell boilers, serious weakness, and sometimes 
explosions are the result of such an action. 

16. Dampness. — Take care that no water comes in contact with 
the exterior of the boiler from any cause, as it tends to corrode and 
weaken the boiler. Beware of all dampness in seating or coverings. 

17. Galvanic Action. — Examine frequently parts in contact 
with copper or brass where water is present, for signs of corrosion. If 
water is salt or acid, some metallic zinc placed in the boiler will usually 
prevent corrosion, but it will need attention and renewal from time to 
time. 

18. Rapid Firing. — In boilers with thick plates or seams exposed 
to the fire, steam should be raised slowly, and rapid or intense firing 
avoided. With thin water tubes, however, and adequate water circu- 
lation, no damage can come from this cause. 

19. Standing Unused. — If a boiler is not required for some time, 
empty and dry it thoroughly. If this is impracticable, fill it quite full 
of water and put in a quantity of common washing soda. External 
parts exposed to dampness should receive a coating of linseed oil. 

20. General Cleanliness. — All things about the boiler room 
should be kept clean and in good order. Negligence tends to waste 
and decay. 



"A 



HAND-BOOK FOR I.rMBERMEN. 



IGl 



WEIGHT OF METALS AND WOOD. 



Substance. Cubic Foot. 

Gum ()2 lbs. 

Hemlock 28 " 

Hickory 4!) " 

Holly 47 " 

Lance Wood .... 45 " 

Larch 84 " 

Lignum Vitoe ... 83 " 

Linden 37 " 

Locust 45 " 

Logwood 57 " 

IMaliogany, Honduras 35 " 

' ' Spanish 

Maple ...... 

" Birds e3^e . . 

Oak, white 53 

" Live (green) . . 78 

" African .... 51 

Orange 44 

Persimmon 44 

Pine, pitch 41 



53 
46 
86 



Substance. Cubic Inch. 

Aluminum 0926 lbs. 

Brass 3lV)4 " 

Bronze 8147 

Copper 8194 " 

Gold, pure 6965 " 

" hammered . . .7003 
Iron, cast 2607 

" wrought . . . .2817 " 

Lead, cast 4106 " 

" rolled 4119 " 

Mercury 40° 5661 " 

Nickel 3133 

Platinum 7356 " 

Silver, cast 3788 

Steel, plates 2823 " 

Zinc 2482 " 

DRY WOODS. Cubic Foot. 

Alder 50 lbs. 

Apple 49 " 

Ash 4^ " 

Beech 53 " 

Butternut 28 " 

Cedar 35 " 

Cherry 44 " 

Chestnut 88 " 

Cypress 40 " 

Ebony 88 " 

Elm 38 " . 

STRENGTH OF ICE. 

Ice 2 inches thick will bear men on foot. 

Ice 4 inches thick will bear men on horseback. 

Ice 6 inches thick will bear logging teams with light loads. 

Ice 8 inches thick will bear logging teams wdth heavy loads. 

Ice 10 inches thick will bear 1,000 lbs. to the square foot. 

This table is for pure sound ice. 

To ascertain the number of feet (board measure) in a log of a 
given size, deduct four inches from its diameter at small end, square 
the remainder, multiply the product by the length of log and divide by 
16, the result will be the board measure contents of log. 



2S 
34 
28 
33 
31 



" white .... 

" 3^ellow . . . 
Poplar 

" wdiite . . . 

Spruce 

Sycamore 39 

Teak 48 

Walnut 42 

" black ... 31 
Willow 80 



1G2 



HENRY DISSTON cr- SONS' 



BELTING. 

The average thickness of single belts is -^^ of an inch and a safe working load 
i'* assumed to be 45 lbs. per inch in width, which, at a velocity of 60 square feet 
per minute is equal to one horse power. 

Belt motion should not exceed 3,000 per minute where narrow belts are run 
over small pulleys a distance of 15 feet between shafts, and which gives a sag of 
1^ to 2 inches in the belt is good practice. For main belts working on large pul- 
leys a greater distance and sag is desirable. 

The strongest side of the belt is the flesh side one-third the way through, 
therefore run the grain (^hair) side on the ptilley. 

A common rule for determining the width of a single belt -^^^ of an inch thick 
to transmit any number of horse power, is to multiply the actual horse power by 
1,000 and divide by the velocity of belt in feet per minute, which gives the width 
in inches. 

A belt 1 inch wide, 800 feet per minute — one horse power. 

To find the length of a belt, add the diameter of the two pulleys together, 
divide the result by 2 and multiply quotient by 31, then add the product of twice 
the distance between centre of shafts and you have the length required. 

The resistance of belts to slipping is independent of their breadth. There is 
no advantage derived in increasing the width beyond that necessary to resist the 
strain to which it is subjected. 

Long belts are more effective than short ones. 

The strain of 350 lbs. per square inch of section is a safe working load. The 
pulley should be a little wider than belt. 



PERFECT INDICATOR. 
For adjustment of log to cut. 



70 Sff $5 S4 6J 60 S« 56 54 52 90 48 -46 ■!« 42 40-38 .3S' 34 -32 iO 28 26 24- 22 20 \8 




This indicator is in the shape of a cylinder to fit over the connecting shaft of 
Head Blocks on Saw Mill Carriage. The Stands marked "A" are made to 
screw on the carriage platform. The figures arranged on both sides of the brass 
plates, one for each, the Sawyer and Setter, being entirely out of the wa^^ of the 
setting lever and in full view of the operator, making the most simple, complete 
and least expensive Indicator now in use. 



A FEW VIEWS 

Showing Sections of 

HENRY DISSTON & SONS, inc. 

KEYSTONE 

SAW, TOOL, STEEL and FILE WORKS 

Philadelphia, Penna, 



r 



164 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



Views of Sections of Henry Disston & Sons' 
Saw Manufactory 




MAKING CRUCIBLE INGOTS FOR SAW STEEL 




ROLLING CIRCULAR SAW PLATES 



r 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



165 



Views of Sections of Henry Disston & Sons* 
Saw Manufactory 




ROLLING HAND SAW STEEL 




CUTTING OUT CROSS=CUT SAW PLATES 



166 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



Views of Sections of Henry Disston & Sons' 
Saw Manufactory 




GETTING=OUT" CIRCULAR SAWS 




QETTINQ=0UT" HAND SAW BLADES 



J 



r 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



167 



Views of Sections of Henry Disston & Sons' 
Saw Manufactory 




HARDENING CIRCULAR SAWS 




TEMPERING CIRCULAR SAWS 



r 



1 r„s 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



Views of Sections of Henry Disston & Sons' 
Saw Manufactory 




HARDENING AND TEMPERING HAND SAW BLADES 



1 

1 

1 1 

]<:■<■■& 






ms^m^?^ 


^^^^ 1 



SMITHING, HAMMERING AND BLOCKING CIRCULAR SAWS 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



169 



Views of Sections of Henry Disston & Sons' 
Saw Manufactory 




GRINDING CIRCULAR SAWS 



170 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



Views of Sections of Henry Disston & Sons' 
Saw Manufactory 




HAND-BOOK FOR L UMBliRMEN. 



171 



Views of Sections of Henry Disston & Sons' 
Saw Manufactory 




FILING LONQ SAWS 




MAKING HAND SAW HANDLES 



r 



172 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



Views of Sections of Henry Disston & Sons' 
Saw Manufactory 




'BELTING " HAND SAW HANDLES 




BLOCKING HAND SAWS 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



173 



Views of Sections of Henry Disston & Sons' 
Saw Manufactory 




FORQINQ TEETH FOR CHISEL POINT CIRCULAR SAWS 




MILLING AND CHISEL POINT TOOTHING DEPARTMENT 



174 



HENRY DISS TON & SONS' 



Views of Sections of Henry Disston & Sons' 
Saw Manufactory 




FORGING FILE BLANKS 



L 




GRINDING FILE BLANKS 



r 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



^^ 



Views of Sections of Henry Disston & Sons' 
Saw Manufactory 




CUTTING" SMALL FILES 




L 



CUTTING" LARGE FILES 



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AUG 2 ^> 1902 
ir.nPvnn.^nr.ATTMV. 

M16. 20 1?»^^ 



II?, e ^^^^2 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



First Prize 




1881— ALTONA EXHIBITION, GERMANY.— 1 Gold and 1 Silver. 

1888— CENTENNIAL INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA.— Gold Medal. 

I893_W0RLD'S COLUMBIAN EXPOSITION, CHICAGO, ILL.— 4 Medals 

and Special Mention. 




